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Saturday, 25 October 2025

Imaging tutorial: Beginner's guide to photographing comets

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In today's blog, a 10-minute read, I 

  • describe Comet Lemmon
  • outline some beginner's tips for capturing this or another comet image
  • suggest a way to post-edit your image of a comet

Detected first on 3rd January 2025 by the Mount Lemmon Survey in Arizona, pre-discovery images from the Pan-STARRS survey date back to November 2024. Initially thought an asteroid, follow up observations revealed a condensed coma and faint tail. A long-period comet! With perihelion to the sun on 8th November 2025, its inbound orbit period is around 1,350 years. And it comes from far out in the solar system, probably the outer Oort cloud. So, this is a relatively rare visit to the inner solar system. 

Like other comets, Lemmon has a s small rocky or icy body nucleus and a coma where solar heating has caused ice to sublimate, releasing dust and gases to form the fuzzy cloud around the nucleus. Its tail is broadly curved, of diffused ionised gas, bluish-green in appearance. As the comet gets closer to the sun, sublimation will increase, releasing more material and enhancing they coma and tail. Solar wind and radiation pressure, as it approaches the sun, will continue to ensure that its tail points away from the sun.

Lemmon, with its eccentric and retrograde orbit as it approaches the sun, is probably an early relic from the formation of the solar system and so it gives astronomers a chance to study material relatively unaltered since then. Like many of our visiting comets remaining unchanged as they arrive in our area of space, our sun heats them causing their icy nuclei to release gas and dust on tails and comas that reveal their composition. Studying this material allows us to learn what the early solar system was made of and how planets such as ours may have formed; delivering water and organic materials, the building blocks of life.  Lemmon carries fresh samples of this primordial material – its chemistry and dynamics is of critical interest.

I have only photographed one comet so far and I found it one of the most fun bits of astrophotography I have done so far on my learning journey. The comet changed its appearance every night I went after it and you can read more details here at this previous post:  https://undersouthwestskies.blogspot.com/2025/01/chasing-comet-c2023-tsuchinstan-atlas.html

alt="Comet Tsuchinstan"

The positives - I located the comet and managed to image it. The 'future learning'? Getting my editing skills better developed, particularly on white balance!! 😆

I used Sequator to stack several images. 
Clearly at the time I hadn't then discovered 'freeze' ground' and also 'stack for comet' options!
I'm aiming to do much better on Comet Lemmon - if the cloud ever actually clears away long enough in the south west 😱 



Anyway, moving on - what are my ‘beginner’s’ tips for capturing this latest cosmic visitor, if you haven't caught one before?

1.      21st – 26th October, when it makes its closest approach to earth and is at its brightest. It is also when there is no or only a faint presence of a new moon

2.      In the northern hemisphere, it will appear in the NW sky after sunset (30 – 90 minutes), once twilight has faded.

3.      Find a clear unobstructed horizon in a dark sky site away from light pollution and be aware that as the night progresses this comet will appear lower and lower in the sky;

4.      Look for the constellation Boötes and its bright star Arcturus as lead in points to its location.

5.      Because it is low on the horizon, try to include some foreground elements such as trees, hills, silhouettes to add context and scale

6.      Its tail will probably point roughly away from the sunset west direction and somewhat downward

7.      A wide to moderate focal length e.g. 24 – 70mm on a full frame camera, or a longer lens/telescope if you want detail in the coma and tail; try ISO 800 – 1600, aperture F/2.8 – F/4 on a fast lens. Exposures 10 – 30” depending on your focal length and whether your mount tracks or not. Shoot in RAW

8.      You could use a star tracker with a 200 – 500mm lens or small refractor for greater tail structure, again ISO 800 – 1600, 20 – 60” and aperture F/4 – F/5; if you are not using a tracker – take multiple 1 – 5” shots and stack them later in software but align on the comet rather than the stars or do both and merge, to keep the nucleus sharp. 

 

Because of its low elevation, there may be atmospheric issues to deal with:

1.      Pick nights with good transparency, if possible, to combat reduced contrast and also haze issues

2.      Try for a clear horizon line under such circumstances; avoid shooting towards sunset glow

3.      Mitigate atmospheric blur and tail motion by taking many short exposures

4.      Use a light pollution filter if you are under lights

 Composition and framing

My Achilles heel in astrophotography and I do try hard to improve it. For comets, which are highly dynamic subjects, composition matters; go for foreground elements such as trees and mountains in wide angled shots. Comets tails always point away from the sun, so that helps in framing the subject. Try to align the comet’s tail diagonally through the image for a dramatic composition. Look for potential juxtapositions – a bright star, a star cluster, an element of the milky way.

How do you do the post processing of your comet image?

1.      In the past I have combined stacks – one aligned on the stars and one aligned on the comet – blending them afterwards in something like deepskystacker or SIRIL - masking carefully to retain both sharp stars and a crisp comet nucleus.

          Combine the two images by blending them together in photoshop or affinity photo

2.      Levels and curves adjustments should aim to extract tail detail without blowing out the coma; use noise reduction but preserve the faint structure in the tail

3.      Colour balance, try to preserve the greenish hues

4.      Crop and sharpen GENTLY to bring out structure without over processing to get artefacts.

What about some beginner tips for shooting comets generally?

1.      Do your research using sources like Sky and Telescope, Sky at Night, etc to learn where and when the comet will appear.  More often than not, best times are when the comet is far from the sun in the sky – so typically visible before dawn or after dusk and when the moon is absent or below the horizon. Choose nights when it is higher in altitude above the horizon to avoid atmospheric haze and light pollution. Stellarium and Sky Safari apps will help you visualise where the comet will appear relative to your horizon, and constellations above.

2.      I have already mention equipment choices above but to build on that:

a.      A DSLR or mirrorless camera that shoots in RAW format. An astro-camera will get deep detail but isn’t essential.

b.      Lens or telescope? Tough question! Wide angle (14 – 50mm) will capture the comet in context with the landscape or milky way. Telephoto or small refractors (100 – 300mm etc – will reveal coma structure and tail detail

c.       A tracking mount such as a skywatcher star adventurer 2i (other brands are available) will allow you to go beyond the limit of shorter exposure times

d.      Tripod and intervalometer enable stability and no vibrations.

e.      Camera settings – how long is a piece of string? If I were doing a TRACKED image then I’d probably go somewhere with ISO 800 – 1600; F/2.8 to F/4 for wide angle lenses and F/4 to F/6 for telephotos; exposures 20 – 60” if tracked and 2 – 10 “if not.  White balance daylight or 4000K

f.        Multiple frames rather than one long exposure are better, it improves signal-to-noise ratio and allows stacking later.

g.       And always shooting in RAW

 

Photographing comets is a unique challenge that combines astrophotography, artistry and timing. Prepare well, bring the right equipment, master your post editing workflow and remember, you are capturing a rare celestial event and ancient cosmic visitor.

Friday, 24 October 2025

Imaging session - The Pacman nebula - first effort.

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Just returned from a motorhome trip to Croatia. Whilst there I had the opportunity to image the nebula below.

My location was a forest clearing high in the Croatian mountains, near the border with Bosnia and Herzegovenia. No light pollution but a full moon, so I was using a light pollution filter. Clear big open skies. Very chilly but still, no wind.
My sound scape was one of hooting tawny owls and barking sheepdogs, left out in the upland fields; their calls echoing across the hills for several miles. Thirty metres away, the sound of wild boar snuffling and squealing; crashing through the understory.
We all find being under a big sky looking up at stars and constellations, the faint milky way cloud, soothing and enlightening. Lulled into a peaceful contentment by the regular clicking of my DSLR, it was the rising hairs on the back of my neck, the first warning indication. Distant dogs had stopped their canine conversation; three dogs, a mere few hundred metres away had started one - frantic barks and growls. Tawny owls had gone silent; the boars gone to ground. As the moon rose above the pine forest canopy, shafts of light illuminated the little clearings below it.
Fleeting, rapidly moving shadows; darting and pausing, sniffing the air. I thought it was a myth. It truly isnt. Wolves really do howl at a rising full moon.
This night, I won the Guiness Book of World record entries for 'fastest pack up of astrophotography equipment'. As I slid beneath the duvet at 1am, the tousle haired beauty I have been married to for nearly forty years muttered " you are in early". "Wolves" I replied. "So get back out there so I can claim the life insurance then" came the unexpected sleepy reply! 😟🤔
I don't get this kind of hassle up at Lowery Cross on Dartmoor! And so this is my excuse for a poor image of the Pacman Nebula - sorry folks!

Equipment and processing:
Canon 800D and Zenithstar 61ii on EQM-35-PRO mount; ISO1600, 240" x 30 with no calibration frames. Poorly processed in SIRIL, GraXpert and Affinity Photo.

alt="NGC 289 Pacman Nebula"


Sunday, 19 October 2025

Imaging session - Astrophotography in Croatia

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I am a lucky man. I own a motorhome and and retired. I can go on long trips. Our most recent one has been 3800 miles to Dubrovnik and back. France, Germany, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia and Italy. From alpine pastures and glacial landscapes to karst scenery and dalmation coastal geomorphology. You can tell I was a geography teacher can't you! 

Perfect nights are usually rare things on such trips.  Campsite light pollution, late arriving motorhomes,  city light pollution, cloudy nights, full moons, fog, woodland sites, roaming bears and wolves. So much to contend with. And then some of the best dark sky sites are high up, along windy narrow roads that are tricky to drive in 4T motorhome! 

Below are some images from Rovinji on the coast, a pretty peninsula town in Istria, Croatia. On this night it was a bright full moon, a starkly lit promenade, a tree covered campsite, a neon lit town on a hill.  So these are by no means good images. 

Capture details - canon 800D DSLR, samyang 14mm F/2.8 lens, intervalometer, carbon fibre tripod.  ISO 400, 11" x 30 images. everything stacked in Sequator. 

alt="milky way above Rovinji in Croatia"

alt="milky way above Rovinji in Croatia"

alt="milky way above Rovinji in Croatia"

alt="milky way above Rovinji in Croatia"



Wednesday, 10 September 2025

Discussion - Upgrading our laptop so what does an astrophotographer need?

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In today's blog, a 5-minute read, I 

  • outline requirements you might look for in a new laptop that you use ofr astrophotography


My old laptop is a dell XPS 13. Portable, lightweight, compact. It has done sterling service for the last eight years. It has travelled with us extensively; been dropped and generally thrown around in a rucksack and a motorhome. Its lid is covered with stickers collected over our travels. I am very, very sentimentally attached to it. 

I love my old laptop. I was heartbroken when I discovered that windows 10 updates will stop in October. I immediately sought to upgrade my old XPS but, alas, on reading up on the dell website, I discovered that my processor was one generation too old. An interent search on various forums confirmed my worst fears; those who had tried to migrate across to Windows 11 on this laptop had had nothing but problems subsequently. 

So, the boss and I decided now was the time to upgrade - but to what? 

Well, we travel a lot so a desk top is out. As is a large heavy laptop. Maggie decided that our new one should have specs that would allow me to continue my astrophotography journey for the next few years. I am slowly progressing towards PixInSight, Star exterminator etc - so it will need some grunt! We want something which will last us another eight years, so good reliable build quality.  I was dispatched to do some research.

My old laptop had an inbuilt graphics Intel card, 256 Gb storage drive and 8Gb of RAM. It has done amazingly well, hasn't it. 

After some thinking, here is my list of 'requirements' for my new laptop

  • bigger screen - 14"
  • still lightweight and portable; slim build
  • non touch screen but with good high resolution and colour reproduction/contrast for photo editing (1920 x 1080 minimum) 
  • haptic keyboard
  • 32 or 64Gb RAM so I can work more quickly with Fits files and stacking
  • a good CPU quad core (minimum) processor intel i7 or i9 is my preference, for speedy stacking, rendering, etc 
  • fast NVMe SSD 1 TB drive 
  • a Nividia RTX 3060 GPU graphics card 6 GB minimum
  • at least four USB ports - thunderbolt 4 would be preferable; built in SD cartd reader as well 
  • efficient thermal cooling technology; multiple fans which are QUIET!
  • long lasting battery - at least 18 hours if possible 
  • good after sales back up and service
Why all the high end specs stuff? Well, I use a DSLR and shoot in RAW. RAW images can be data intensive and stacking a hundred or so and all the calibration frames as well can be really draining on computer resources. My old laptop has struggled at times, especially when using SIRIL.  The CPU does all the grunt work and so I need something more powerful. Fast storage is a must when processing and editing all these files. And of course, the more programs I download in the future, the more memory space I will need so 1 TB seems to be the thing and within my budget - just! As well as editing thye photos, I also make YouTube videos and this is where the old laptop struggled - writing voideos to storage; video editing software etc. Laggy!  This should be so much more quicker with a faster SSD drive. 


What have I ended up with?

Another Dell XPS. No seriously, I looked at hundreds of diffrent laptops of various makes on-line and in store; but at the end, I kept coming back to two brands - Dell and Lenovo. I have used them both throughouit my teaching career and they have proven to be bomb proof as far as I am concerned.  
Dell were selling off the last of their XPS ranges and offering substantial discounts as they have introduced a new 'different' laptop range this year. Consequently, I paid precisely what I paid for the old one eight years ago but this time with a £500 discount on top and the extra warranties thrown in. 

alt="Dell XPS 14  Laptop"
The new laptop
Bigger screen and so much faster processing and a dedicated NVIVDIA graphics chip
And yes, the background is one of my milky way images taken down a local beach 


My new configuration specs are: 

  • CPU - Intel Core Ultra 7 155H  12 core 3,85 Ghz processor 
  • 32 Gb RAM
  • fast NVMe SSD 1 TB drive 
  • a dedicated Nividia RTX 3060 GPU graphics card 6 GB minimum
  • 14" screen, slim, lightweight
  • haptic keyboard
  • non touch screen with high resolution
  • battery that lasts 18 hrs
  • ultra quiet two fans and four cooling vents 
  • 2 year warranty extension
  • 2 year battery warranty extension
  • superior after sales technical support package
Basically, I got everything I wanted at a budget I could afford.  Having used the laptop for the last month, I have to say I am really impressed. It is blisteringly fast, lovely to use and rather stylish in design. The haptic keyboard is a revelation. 

Sadly the weather hasnt yet played ball and so I have yet to use SIRIL on it but I suspect it will be far faster than what I have been normally used to.  I'll let you know! 

Lightweight, compact, and yep, sadly decorated already
A tradition that neither of us know where from, but we decorate the lid of our laptops with 'sticker's picked up during our travels! I know - a sad desecration of a besautiful piece of technology. 
We are heathens! 



Postscript:

I have had the laptop for just over a month now and have started some basic processing in Siril, Affinity Photo and GraXpert. The new laptop is blisteringly fast - around five times faster on just about everything I have asked it to do thus far. Take basic OSC preprocessing scripts in Siril. Old laptop, could take up to 25 minutes. Same data on new laptop - five minutes flat. Stacking data in affinity photo - old laptop - 35 minutes; same data new laptop - 6 minutes.  It really is an impressive beast. Moreover, it doesn't overheat, the fans don't get noisy. 

Basically, absolutely loving the new laptop and chose the right specs! Can I use it out in the field for guiding? No idea as I use an ASIair mini linked to my smartphone - but much hunch? Suspect so! 



Friday, 8 August 2025

Planning tutorial: beginner's guide to planning your first milky way photograph shoot

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Beginner's guide to taking and post editing milky way photographs 

This post is in two parts:

  • PART A - a cheat sheet to help your decision making on the night or on a reccy  - see below

Part A - a cheat sheet to help your decision making on the night or on a reccy

Below you will find three images which you can print screen and assemble onto an A4 sheet and then print off:




Copyright PlymouthAstroBoy
Based on own thinking and learning from two different 'free' on-line courses by 
Kristina Rose Photography and Dan Zafra Photography

The sheet is straight forward enough to use - it takes you through a series of questions/decisions. At the end you should have a clear picture of WHAT ytou want to achieve and HOW you are going to achieve it. 

Let me know if you find it useful and whether there are changes you would recommend - drop me a comment in the box at the end of the post. 


Whilst the sheet above is a good prompt on the night or during a reccy - there are other things to consider and I wrote a series of posts some time ago about other aspects:


A recent effort from along my milky way photography learning journey
Wembury Church South Devon