About Me

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A retired Welshman living in wonderful Plymouth in SW England, I’m a family man, novice sailor and boat builder, astrophotographer and motorhomer. With a passion for all things to do with education and the sea and skies above, I have a sense of adventure and innate curiosity. I write three blogs. ‘Arwen’s Meanderings’ charts my learning to sail a self-built John Welsford designed ‘Navigator’ yawl. Look out for her accompanying YouTube channel www.YouTube.com/c/plymouthwelshboy . ‘UnderSouthWestSkies’ follows my learning journey as I take up astronomy and astrophotography; a blog for beginner’s new to these hobbies, just like me. ‘Wherenexthun’, a co-written blog with my wife Maggie, shares how we ‘newbies’ get to grips with owning ‘Bryony’ an ‘Autosleeper’s Broadway EB’ motorhome, and explores our adventures traveling the UK and other parts of Europe. Come participate in one or more of our blogs. Drop us a comment, pass on a tip, share a photo. I look forward to meeting you. Take care now and have fun. Steve (and Maggie)
Showing posts with label ASIair mini. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ASIair mini. Show all posts

Friday, 21 November 2025

Equipment review: - A review of the ASIair Mini from ZWO

 

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Some pieces of equipment feel like they earn their place in your kit bag. Others, feel like they deserve a small shrine to techie ingenuity!

My ASIair Mini is one such beastie which needs a shrine! A palm sized marvel of technology that punches above its weight. Equal parts tech wizardry and control tower, in this blog today, I review my ASIair mini, 9 months on from purchasing it. The good, the bad and occasionally the plain baffling! So, I’ll cover

·       A very quick tour of its key features

·       Outline its standout advantages

·       Examine its quirks, drawbacks and disadvantages

·       Review what other users and reviewers say about it

·       Who I think the ASIair Mini suits

And, if you are new to the ASIair Mini cosmos, you might want to also check out my beginner’s tutorial to setting up and using the ASIair mini on your own rig.

https://undersouthwestskies.blogspot.com/2025/02/beginners-guide-to-using-autoguiding.html

alt="ZWO ASIair Mini in its box"
Copyright for all images  - Alan Dyer on Cloudy Nights forum


So, let’s start with:

Features I like

Hardware & connectivity – is it the Swiss army knife of astrophotography hubs? Let’s find out.

  • Compact size & light weight. It really does fit in the palm of my hand and is lighter than many eyepieces I own
  • Made of CNC-machined aluminium, giving a sturdy, dust/dew-resistant body. It just looks compact, elegant and efficient (I’m so shallow!). A ’premium gear’ vibe.
  • Built-in WiFi antenna supporting 2.4GHz and 5GHz for wireless control from phone/tablet.
  • USB Type-C port (for e.g. connecting to computer or export) and 4 × USB 2.0 ports.
  • Four 12V DC output ports (to power accessories such as camera, dew heaters) and a DSLR shutter release port.
  • Power monitoring: A mini mission-control in the palm of your hand - the unit allows monitoring of input voltage/current, and reports temperature, devices connected etc. Not just smart, its ‘thoughtfully’ smart!
  • Software/firmware features: Plate-solving for alignment, polar-alignment routines, focusing assistant, multi-target planning, image stacking on-device (for supported cameras) etc.
  • Storage: Internal eMMC storage (e.g., ~32 GB) for saving captures. But you can use a usb stick in one of the usb ports as well

 

alt="ASIair Mini from ZWO"

Workflow & usability

Tired of a spaghetti mess of cables, laptops, power bricks? The Mini may well feel like a breath of fresh night time air for you!

  • You can use a smartphone or tablet (iOS or Android) to control the camera, mount, guiding, focus, filter wheel etc. Moreover, I can do it from the kitchen! Make a cuppa, keep warm, monitor everything happening outside – its living the dream!
  • All-in-one imaging hub: The Mini replaces a laptop + multiple control boxes + messy cables with a simpler one-box solution. A simple portable rig without a power-hungry laptop etc – brilliant.
  • Good WiFi range: I can go back in the house, sit in the kitchen and it still works.
  • Imaging feature set: The app supports tasks like focusing (with curves/HFD), plate-solving, dithering, calibration frames, filter switching, auto-guiding, multi-target sessions. Confession time – I haven’t even scraped the surface of some of these functions yet! I literally learn something new every time I use it!

 

Here is my take on advantages, but I also researched this on some of the popular forum threads.

Advantages (What the Mini does well)

1.      Simplified setup & workflow
It took me a couple of sessions to work out the basics. Like deciphering hieroglyphs, but that maybe because I’m a tad dim. It does make astrophotography much easier — especially for deep-sky imaging – centralising everything and reducing cable clutter, eliminating the need for a laptop etc. It’s probably the simplest and most user-friendly controller around.

2.      Portability & power efficiency
So compact and low-power compared to a full laptop – brilliant for my “grab-and-go” setups. The aluminium body makes it robust for field use and a good WiFi range gives flexibility in positioning. It is easy to switch between my two rigs. A backpacking astronomer’s dream!
 

3.      Integrated control & monitoring
Many reviewers and users commented on the fact that having power-ports, USB ports, monitoring of voltage/current etc means you can run camera, mount, focuser, heaters etc from one hub — reducing separate controllers. It’s a conductor orchestrating your astrophotography symphony. Now, I haven’t done all this yet – mine acts as a hub connecting the mount, guide camera and DSLR camera (which it does easily). I run dew band heaters from a separate power pack. Autoguiding and dithering run very well by the way. Basically, it has plenty of bells and whistles for beginners new to astrophotography to be getting on with.

4.      Strong value
Weigh up its capabilities against its price and its real value for money. The price point relative to capability is often mentioned in reviews. I got mine bundled with the ZWO 120mm mini guide cam and also a guide scope.

5.      Good support for ZWO ecosystem
If you already own ZWO cameras, focusers, filter wheels etc, then the integration is generally ‘plug and play’ heaven – seamless integration.

 

alt="ZWO ASIair Mini with supplied cables"
What comes in the box 

Now there are disadvantages with the ASIair Mini; its less shiny side is where it gets a little tricky – some are to do with the unit itself but many are to do with the control app. No product is flawless and the Mini is no exception.  

Disadvantages / Limitations (What to watch out for)

No product is perfect, and the Mini has several caveats noted by users & reviewers and me for that matter.

1.      Hardware compromises (to achieve “Mini” size/price)

o   The USB ports are all USB-2.0, not USB-3.0. and some reviewers note that full frame cameras will not work with the live stacking feature.”

o   The unit lacks some features of the larger ASIAIR Plus/Pro models: e.g., there is no Ethernet port.

o   Because of its simplified / cost-cut design, some more advanced features and high-end workflows may be constrained. Not ideal then for ultra-demanding setups.

2.      Ecosystem lock-in
A frequent criticism: you are somewhat locked into the ZWO ecosystem (cameras, focusers, filter wheels) if you want full functionality. The Mini plays nicest with its own family! Software not including drivers for cameras, focusers, or filter wheels from competing manufacturers and where it does occasionally occur, you aren’t guaranteed full, smooth integration. My tip? Do a compatibility check before buying if you have non-ZWO gear already.  

3.      Software/firmware stability & glitches
Some users report bugs, wireless disconnects, or setup quirks. And this is a major issue I feel – put it this way, once I got mine set up and working, I switched off automatic update on the app. Why? Some of the app upgrade releases have on occasions come with bugs, stability issues, random disconnections and more. It isn’t often but it is frustrating when it happens.

4.      Power supply caution
The Mini needs a proper power source – ideally 12V/5A. Underpower it and you risk instability. A power bank of say 12V/1.5 could endanger the electrical integrity of the ASIair. Hence, I run dew band heaters off a separate power bank, just to play safe.

5.      Not optimal for very high-end / high-speed camera workflows
Running a large camera sensor? Doing high speed planetary imaging? The USB-2 ports become a bottleneck if you are trying to connect many accessories such as camera+guide cam+focuser+filter wheel+USB stick.  The Mini may struggle in workflows that demand very fast data transfer, live-stacking full-frame cameras etc.

6.      Avoid “cheap” cables/adapters that may cause voltage drop or mis-outputs.

7.      App/User-interface quirks

o   Some beginner users find the app somewhat unintuitive initially and mention that the downloadable PDF manual is lacking specifics, outdated and rather vague on some important aspects. I really had to rely on YouTube experts and then draw up my own guide sheet when first using it as there was so much to take in. I strongly urge you to check out my other post with its videos and ‘cheat sheet’.

o    Plate solving bugs with the ASIAIR mini crop up - completely failing GoTo – is one I occasionally experience it’s as frustrating. The telescope develops schizophrenia, traversing in a seemingly random direction, confirming a plate-solve on your target but pointing to a completely different area of the cosmos. Makes me a very confused stargazer at times!  My solutions have been to check the sequence of powering mount vs the Mini. (Turn on the ASIAIR Mini first, then mount/power gear. Also, make sure plate-solving and GOTO are correctly configured; check mount parameter settings, orientation, and that image orientation is correct.)

o   Freeze firmware updates if you have a working setup. Some users recommend not updating immediately after app/software releases or waiting to see feedback in forums after a release. As I have already said, miner is permanently frozen on one version and I haven’t updated it since, with no ill effect thus far.

 


Recommendations: What rigs the ASIAIR Mini suits (and which it doesn’t)

OK, getting into dangerous territory now, as I am still a beginner to this, but here are my thoughts:

Best suited rigs

The Mini is particularly well suited to:

  • Portable / field rigs: especially “grab-and-go” setups where you want minimal cables, quick setup, remote control from your phone/tablet.
  • Deep-sky imaging with mid-sized sensors: If you have a camera of moderate size (e.g., APS-C or smaller), and you are doing exposures of a few minutes, the Mini will work well as the hub controlling mount guiding, camera, focuser, filter wheel.
  • ZWO ecosystem users: If your camera, focuser, filter wheel etc are ZWO branded, the integration will be smooth and you’ll benefit from the Mini’s streamlined workflow.
  • Simplified rigs / beginners: For someone looking to avoid the complexity of a full PC + multiple control software, the Mini gives a more “plug-and-play” experience and is a good choice for those who want quick results. No headaches here!
A very similar set up to my own rig


Less suited rigs / when to consider something bigger

You might consider a more advanced controller (or a full PC) instead of the Mini when:

  • You are using large-format sensors (full-frame or very high-megapixel cameras), or doing high-speed imaging (e.g., planetary, lucky imaging) where USB 3.0, more bandwidth, and faster I/O matter.
  • Your gear is heterogeneous, i.e., a mix of non-ZWO cameras/focusers/filter wheels, or if you want maximal flexibility across brands. The Mini may limit you due to driver/support constraints.
  • You need advanced/custom scripting, very complex automation, or run multiple heavy tasks (e.g., very large mosaics, heavy live-stacking) where a full PC might be more robust.
  • Your power supply situation is marginal or you are using a lot of accessories drawing from the Mini’s 12 V outputs: you’ll need to ensure a good battery/power rig, otherwise you might face instability.

My verdict

If you said “Steve, you are biased about this piece of equipment”, I think that would be a fair challenge. I think the ASIair Mini has made my astrophotography real fun. It has stripped away complexity, clutter and laptops! A very capable, well-designed controller for deep-sky astrophotography, uncomplicated, portable simplicity and wireless control. I think it fits the bill for a first standard deep sky astro rig with an APS-C size camera, smaller refractor, decent mount or larger tracker. From my perspective, it is excellent value. Now, as a beginner, I know I will not be upgrading my kit until I have better understood and mastered some of the post editing skills, so I’ll be keeping the Mini for some time to come. A trusted co-pilot in my cosmic adventures.

On the other hand, if your ambitions are “enthusiast/pro” level with large sensors, many accessories and multiple brands, you might consider stepping up (e.g., to ASIAIR Plus/Pro or a dedicated mini-PC) so you don’t outgrow the device. And, don’t forget, you are locked into the ZWO ecosystem regarding other accessories such as focusers, filter wheels etc.

Bottom line – The ASIair Mini is a pocket-sized computer for your astro rig – smart, efficient and on the whole quietly brilliant. It won’t do everything, but what it does do, it does exceptionally well in my experience.


alt="ZWO ASIair Mini teamed with zenithstar 61ii and Canon 800D DSLR"
The ZWO ASIair Mini teamed with my Canon 800D, a RVO 32mm guide scope with ZWO 120mm mini guide cam
and below the rig mounted on my EQM-35-PRO mount 




Monday, 3 February 2025

Equipment tutorial: using autoguiding with an ASIair mini

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This post was updated in January 2026

I have decided to get into the world of autoguiding. Its been a deep rabbit hole to dive down into! 

In today's post, I 

  • share what my current astrophbotography rigs are 
  • outline my autoguiding set up 
  • briefly explore why I want to do autoguiding
  • give detailed autoguiding workflow notes based on the equipment I am using 
The aim of the post is to try and simplify the entire process of setting up an autoguiding rig - remember this blog is written by a beginner - to help other beginners out there! 



Let me remind you - this is my current astrophotography kit

  • Canon 800D (which is about to be astro-modified)
  • Samyang 135 and 14mm lenses at F/2
  • Canon 22 and 50mm prime lenses at F/2.8
  • Zenithstar 61ii with 61A field flattener
  • SkyWatcher Star Adventurer 2i 
  • Ioptron skytracker
  • EQM-35-PRO mount
  • Optolong L-Pro filter  - broadband
  • Optolong L-enHance filter  - narrowband
  • Celestron Lithium Pro powertank
  • Skywatcher Power tank
  • Four 26,800 mAh power bands
  • Dew band heaters for refractor and samyang 135mm lens
  • Carbon fibre benro tripod
The autoguiding set up I assembled comprises of 
  • ASIair mini
  • ZWO 120mm mini guide cam
  • RVO 32mm f/2 128mm FL Guide scope 

Why did I delve into autoguiding? 

Fair question. Well after a couple of years of getting solid 2 minute subs on my SWSA 2i, I wanted to push this a little further to 3 - 6 minute subs - especially now I have the EQM-35-PRO. I have tried with the SWSA 2i to achieve this but it has been hit and miss. I decided that simple autoguiding would help me achieve this more easily. 

These were the four videos that set me off on this journey: 






What is my autoguiding work flow when out in the field? 

As always, the notes I provide below are my 'cheat notes' which I take with me on most shoots. I assembled them from research notes made whilst watching various YouTube videos and reading various blogs and websites.  They are written for me, based on my particular erquipment rigs - but they may help you if you are beginning your auto guiding journey. 

As always my blogs come with a caveat. I may have things wrong. I may have misunderstood things. Remember this is a blog written by a beginner to astronomy and astrophotography for other beginners starting a similar learning journey. 

If you think I need to add further detail or correct something, drop me a comment below and I will get it sorted. And thank you! 



What are my workflow 'cheat' notes for setting up autoguiding on an astrophotography night? 



Connecting equipment together

1.        From back of ZWO 120mm mini guide camera – usb cable to ASIair mini usb slot 

2.      ST4 cable from guide cam to SWSA 2i tracker OR USB/RJ45 cable from ASIair USB slot to controller unit on EQM-35-PRO mount

3.      From Canon 800D dslr – cable from USB port to ASIair mini USB slot

4.      To ASIair mini – 12v cable from Celestron Lithium Pro power tank 

5.      USB storage drive into spare USB slot on ASIair mini

6.      From separate power banks on tripod legs and/or Skywatcher power tank – (a) dummy battery      USB cable to Canon 800 dslr   (b) Dew heater bands for guide scope and Samyang lens or zenithstar 61ii   

7.      Ensure all cables will rotate freely without snagging






The work flow: 

## 1. Equipment Setup (First Time or After Changes)

Go to ** Equipment** tab: 

 ### Mount

* Select your **mount brand/model**

* Connection type: USB / EQMod / Serial

* Tap **Connect**

* Set **Mount Type = EQ**

* Confirm **Tracking = Sidereal**

### Cameras  -

* Connect **Main Camera**  

 * Connect **Guide Camera**    

* Set: Gain (typical: 100–120 for ZWO cameras)

### Guide Scope   

* Enter **focal length**

* Guide camera pixel size should auto-fill

### Location & Time*

 Confirm:   Latitude / Longitude    Time zone

  * Daylight Saving (ON if applicable)




## 2. Rough Polar Alignment (Manual)

Before software alignment:  Level the tripod - Point the mount **roughly toward Polaris** (or south celestial pole)

Set mount to **Home Position**     

* Counterweight down

* Scope pointing north   

* RA = 0, DEC = 90 (or mount default)

Notes -   Balance slightly east-heavy   DEC: slightly north-heavy    Cables secured (no drag)     Guide scope solid (no flex)

Neutral balance = DEC backlash nightmare.


## 3. Focus guide cam/guide scope

*Switch off both cameras in app  

*select guide cam to main cam    

*test shots to focus guide cam    

*switch back to correct cameras   

*Dark library - ON

(Aim for low star size/high peak value) – set gain 50 - 60– affects star size – aiming for star value 2 or 3 and <5. Select bin 1 for guide scope (bin 2 if stars faint or using narrowband filter). 

To focus properly - Point at a star-rich area  Set:   Exposure: 1–2s    Gain: 60–70  Gamma – 50   

Adjust focus until:  Stars are small and round  Not donuts   Not bloated   👉 If stars look like fuzz or blobs, guiding will never be good.)

In this screenshot - I have started guiding calibration
It wasn't going well but that was because, as I later discovered, my tracker wasn't working properly


## 4. ASIAIR Polar Alignment (Software)

1. Select **Main Camera** (not guide camera)    

2. Tap **Start**  

3. ASIAIR will:  Take image    Plate solve   Rotate RA automatically (~60°)

### Adjust the mount     

5. Follow on-screen arrows: adjust RA first and then Dec        

6. Aim for:   Error ≤ **1 arcmin** (good)  **30 arcsec** (excellent)

RECHECK PA AFTER TIGHTENING BOLTS UP – REPEAT IT! 

Poor polar alignment causes: Declination drift  Failed calibration   Inconsistent guiding corrections


## 5. Go Back to Home Position

1. Tap **Mount → Go Home**  

2. Wait until finished

This ensures accurate GoTo and guiding.


## 6. Focus (Very Important)

### Rough Focus   

1. Go to ** Focus**   - Select **Main Camera** 

2. Exposure: 1–3 sec   - Increase gain if needed 

 3. Adjust focuser until stars are small    ### Fine Focus (Recommended)  * Use **Bahtinov mask**

(Tap and hold box – drag onto a star – tap zoom on LHS – let settle for 1 or 2 images – aim to get lowest FWHM as possible)


## 8. Plate Solve & GoTo Target

1. Go to *Preview**     

2. Tap **GoTo** 

 3. Search object (e.g. M31, M42) 

4. Tap **GoTo**  

5. ASIAIR will:   Slew    Plate solve  Re-center automatically  Wait until **Error < 10–20 arcsec**

Goto Settings   Use plate solve: ON        Sync after solve: ON       Search radius: 5°       Downsample: 2



## 9. Take a Plate Solve Image

On the main camera panel:  Exposure: 2–3 s  ISO: 1600

1.       Tap Plate Solve - 📌 ASIAIR takes an image and analyses the star pattern

2.       Plate Solve & Sync  If the solve succeeds:  ASIAIR syncs the mount   *Coordinates are corrected  *See a green solve confirmation

If the target is not centred: *ASIAIR automatically offers Recentre   *Tap Recentre - It will: Slew slightly Re-solve

Repeat until centred 🎯 Result: target centred within a few arcseconds

3. Verify Framing (Optional but Recommended)

Take another Preview image   Confirm: *Target position  *Rotation / framing       Use Framing Assistant   Or manually nudge mount and re-solve


## 10. Guiding Setup & Calibration 

Before calibrating:  Point near:  Celestial equator  Meridian Declination between –20° and +20°

1. Go to **Guide**       

2. Select **Guide Camera**  

3.clear calibration tab top right corner.   

 4. Double tap graph – check guide settings as follows:  

  • RA agg 60/70%  Dec agg 50/60%     
  • Corrections – on   
  • Guiding rate (under mount tab) x0.5   
  • Calibration rate (try 750 first)2000 
  • Max RA duration200 ms   
  • Max DEC duration200 ms 
  • DEC mode: auto  (👉 Choose North or South only based on which way DEC drift naturally goes after PA. Avoid DEC Auto unless PA is excellent.)
  • Backlash compensationOFF  
  • Multi-star guiding: ON (if available in your app version)  
If calibration fails:  Increase calibration step size slightly Check DEC cable and mount response  Verify guide scope focal length is set correctly (128 mm

if imaging towards zenith > calibration number

5. Exposure:   * 1–2 sec (start with 1.5s)

 6. Tap **Calibrate**     * Happens once per session or target  

7. After calibration completes, tap **Start Guiding*


**Very important:**  After guiding starts, watch DEC drift for ~2 min:

* If DEC slowly drifts **north**, set **DEC South only**

* If DEC drifts **south**, set **DEC North only**

### Good guiding values 

 * Total RMS:   * **< 1.5″** = good    * **< 1.0″** = excellent (depends on mount) aiming for calibration in <18 steps    Less than 4 steps = poor calibration – reduce calibration to smaller number. Too many steps - > calibration number

Spikey blue RA lines – decrease RA agg first; then if no effect - alter exposure to 2” or mount speed to 0.75 or 0.25

Blue line pulses oscillating same direction - > aggression. Peaks either side of line – decrease aggressiveness

Aim for star peak 80 – 200 for proper lock on


## 11. Imaging Settings (Autorun Preparation)

Go to **Autorun**  

### Camera settings  

  • * Gain: 100–120 (typical)        
  • * Offset: default 
  •  * Exposure time:   
  •  * Broadband: 60–180s  
  • * Narrowband: 180–300s (if guided well)
  • * Guide restart if lost      Optional:   * Meridian Flip (highly recommended)     
  • * Auto-shutdown at end


## 12. In **Autorun** tab: 

1. Select:  * Target  * Camera   * Filter

2. Set:   * Number of frames (e.g. 50 × 120s) (do in blocks of 30 minutes and then check cables, focus, etc before starting next thirty minute block)

3. Enable:  

  • * Dithering (every 12 frames)   
  • *dithering threshold – 1.2”   
  • * Auto-centre    
  • * Guide restart if lost   
  • *First delay – 15”  
  • *Interval – 3”   NOTE: Dither less often for long subs

4. Optional:   

  • * Meridian Flip (highly recommended) – flip at 0d; 
  • * recalibrate guiding - YES   
  • * Auto-shutdown at end

5. do test image and check histogram – zoom in check no star trailing - if so – stop guiding – refocus main camera lens/refractor with Bahtinov mask – restart guiding – test shot


## 12. Start Imaging!

1. Confirm:   

  • * Guiding is active    
  • * Target centred   
  • * Focus is good

2. Tap ** Start Autorun** 

ASIAIR will now:  

  • * Capture images    
  • * Dither    
  • * Re-centre if needed    
  • * Handle meridian flip (if enabled)

3. study guide graph – see section ## 9 above



## 13. End of Session

After Autorun finishes:   

  • * Stop guiding   
  • * Park mount            
  • * Power off ASIAIR

🔄 WHEN TO PLATE SOLVE AGAIN

Plate solve again:  

  • *After every GoTo  
  • *After meridian flip  
  • *If target drifts off centre   
  • *When changing targets

Do NOT plate solve continuously during guiding.


🔍 What “Good” Looks Like with EQM-35-PRO

With a 128 mm guide scope + ASI120MM Mini:

  • RMS total: 0.6–1.3″ (good)
  • RA dominates error
  • No oscillation pattern
  • Stable star count (not dropping)
  • DEC mostly flat with occasional bumps

🚨 COMMON MISTAKES (Very Common)

Trying to guide before solving or trying to guide with unfocused stars 
Main camera out of focus or loose guide scope 
Exposure too short (<1s)
Pointing near celestial pole when doing calibration

❌ over-aggressive RA/Dec settings 

❌ expecting perfect guiding in bad seeing

❌ rotating guide scope after doing calibration

❌ not balancing mount to be RA east heavy; or north or south heavy in Dec OR making balance neutral! 

for first solve
Forgetting to tap Recentre 


Again in this shot  the guiding calibration isn't going well - too many steps! 

here is a screenshot showing good guiding in the graph
RA blue line is showing 0.59' and this is good. The stars in the previous image, which is the one shown, are pin point with no trailing evident. On the RH menu we can see the next image is being shot and we have 112" left of a 120" image. So far, on the auto run - 6/15 lights have been taken. 

This shows a good autoguiding.
The two cross lines are green and meet centrally in the green square. RA is 0.66' - well below 1.0. 

Problem solving on the night:  

If getting trailing or inaccurate guiding, initially check

1.       all settings are switched on in app - e.g. main cam, mount and guide cam

2.       correct focal lengths entered in various tabs (wrong ones will lead to failed calibration)

3.       focus is absolute on both cameras - poor focus can lead to failing plate solving

4.       settings in app not interfering 

5.    cables are not snagging anywhere around mount

6.   Mount is is powered and working. Ditto with ASIair mini

7.   Internet signal still established between app and ASIair mini

8.  Dec is in one direction and not auto - so north or south 

9.  RA shows a sawtooth pattern - then RA is too aggressive - reduce the RA aggressiveness 

10.  plate solving fails due to low exposure

11. star elongation/trailing = poor polar alignment  - redo PA 


Quick tip: 

🧠 Quick Mental Model

  1. GoTo = get close
  2. Plate solve = know exactly where you are
  3. Recenter = put target dead center
  4. Guide = stay there





Below is a checklist that you can use on the night to help ensure you don't miss any steps in the workflow: 


I hope the above helps you set up your autoguiding system successfully and saves you hours of research time. 

As always, if you have any tips, observations or thoughts about the workflowe above, drop me a message in the comment box below and I will rewrite the post to take your observations into account. 

Meanwhile, it only remains for me to say 'clear skies, stay safe and haver fun out there under the stars'. 

Steve