Sunday, 2 February 2025

Astro-modifying my Canon 800D - should I?

 Getting my DSLR camera astro-modified

When I heard that after so many years, and over 2500 astro conversions, Andy Ellis of ‘Astronomiser’ was hanging up his tools – I immediately did some research and reached a decision. 

My research was – ‘what are the advantages and disadvantages of astro modifying my camera’ and I have sort of summarised my findings below.

The decision? I am posting my DSLR to Andy ASAP, having got one of his last conversion slots. he came highly recommended and I haven't been able to find someone else in the Uk at the moment who would do it. Ideally I wanted to wait another year ro so until I was better at post editing but, as is always the case, I've decided to jump right in and get it done now. 😕

So, what is astro modifying a DSLR all about?

I have a Canon 800D. It is several years old now. It has become my astrophotography camera. I tend to use a compact Canon digital zoom for my daily photography as it is compact, easy to slip into a pocket on my travels and takes really good photos.

Copyright: Astronomiser Andy Ellis 
And this is why I could never ever do such a modification myself, despite several good YouTube tutorials on line! 

Now my Canon camera, like other Canons, have a fitted filter that cuts out swathes of red light at a particular frequencies (about 75% of the light in the red band I think) – and this can really affect the Hydrogen Alpha band of emission nebulae. Thus to have any chance of capturing the red in nebulae etc, then I have to do lots of long exposures - making an astrophotography session, very long! 

Remove the filter and the cameras red response gets improved by a whopping x4 in this Hydrogen Alpha band, thus reducing the amount of imaging time required. The mod will also improve my milky way photos, shots of star forming regions and enhance any hydrogen alpha in galaxies.  

Copyright: Astronomiser Andy Ellis
I know that if I did this, after re-assembling the camera - i'd discover bits 'left over'! 

So, I am getting the rear filter removed. This is a UV/IR cut and colour correcting filter so I am told. Hence its an ‘IR Mod’. They key here is its removal stops the colour correcting bit which is where the 75% of light loss occurs.

At least I think this is right. As always, I flag up my long-standing caveat – I’m a beginner at astrophotography and so I may make mistakes, for which I apologise! If you think I have anything wrong, drop me a comment and I will correct it immediately. Remember, this is a blog written by a beginner, for beginners!

Back to my astro-mod. I think Andy will remove this rear filter and reposition the sensor to correct for the loss of the filter glass.

Copyright: Astronomiser Andy Ellis 


So, lets move onto the advantages of doing this mod – I have already raised a few:

·        Removal of the filter will allow more sensitivity light to the Hydrogen Alpha band  - easier to capture faint red wavelengths!

·        Increased sensitivity means I can capture more detailed vibrant images of DSO’s in shorter imaging sessions - more accurate colours

·        I will be able to do better narrowband imaging

·        With shorter imaging time, my images should suffer from fewer stars overwhelming the main DSO I am imaging

·        I can still use my  existing DSLR lenses and Zenithstar 61ii small refractor

Disadvantages of doing the mod:

·        My camera will now capture all images in the red spectrum and so I will need to make white balance adjustments if I want to use the camera for daylight shots OR I can use a clip in astronomic OWB filter to compensate. I read somewhere that setting a WB of 2500K for daylight photography will work but only time will tell.

·        an astro-modified camera might struggle with capturing detail in bright objects like the moon due to its increased sensitivity to red light. 

·        For capturing lunar details or wide-field shots with a high dynamic range, an unmodified camera might be preferable. 

·        I may lose automatic focusing on my lenses (not an issue for me as I tend to use them all in manual focusing mode at night)

·        The costs of the astronomic filter and conversion

·        It will void my factory warranty (but that was already out of date anyway)

·        I am going to get post editing frustration as I will need to do colour corrections to my milky way landscapes – they will have a purplish hue! So, I will need to re-write my cheat notes about post editing work flow.


Is the modification worth doing? 

Jury out on that as far as I make out on various forums. For everyone who says yes, someone says no! Many say invest in a tracker instead for any landscape photography and don’t mod the camera.

I have decided to take the plunge. If nothing else, it will force me to master colour correcting techniques in Affinity Photo!

Below are some of the videos I looked at: 




AstroOnBudget





PhotoPills 


Kamil Pekala

NOTE: The videos above are just ones I watched. There are plenty of others out there which detail the pro's and cons' of astro-modifying your DSLR.  I am not recommending these channels as such, although I will admit that Kamil's, Nico's, Alyn's and Nightscapes - have been channels that I have found to be really informative. 


Have I accidently broken my SkyWatcher Star Adventurer 2i tracker?

 Newly arrived to my blog? Want to know more about me before you dive into my posts? Why not visit the home page first and start your exploration from there: 

https://undersouthwestskies.blogspot.com/2025/01/welcome-to-my-new-astronomyastrophotogr.html

And welcome. Welcome to 'UnderSouthWest Skies'. Thanks for stopping by. I hope you find the experience worthwhile. This blog post has been written from my own 'beginner perspective' after doing lots of reading on the various blog topics.  In getting my head around it all, I may have got odd bits slightly wrong; but, like you, I am on a leaning journey, so please forgive any unintentional errors.  Meanwhile, clear skies to you. Take care and thanks for visiting   Steve aka PlymouthAstroBoy 

 

Hello!

In my last post you will have noted that I couldn't get my tracker to work. An absolute nightmare of a night! 

https://undersouthwestskies.blogspot.com/2025/02/making-basic-astrophotography-mistakes-1.html

This morning, the tracker is being tested extensively in the living room. I have put my lighter rig on it (Samyang 135mm+Canon 800D + RVO guidecope+ZWO 120 mm mini guide cam). 

I have suspended a small pen on a string from the counterweight arm to help me discern how well the tracker is moving. The issue seems to be when the rig is on the east of the tracker and the counterweights arm to the right. The rig will track fine up to the horizontal position. From there, it seems to stop tracking and I have no idea why. If you swing the rig the other side - there seems to be no problems with tracking. It is just that 9 o'clock to 11 o' clock position that it seems to go on strike. 

How bizarre is this? 

I updated the tracker with the latest firmware in the early hours of this morning (shows you how worried I am that I am doing a firmware update at 0100) and so this morning, I am hoping, with fingers crossed, that all is well. I will let you know at the end of today if the firmware update has fixed the issue. 

If you need to update the firmware on your SWSA you can get the various software and uploader programs here: 

https://www.skywatcher.com/download/software/star-adventurer/


My concern is that I may have somehow damaged the mechanism. I can use the side buttons to x12 the tracking rate - the motor works and movement is fine at all angles. Same when it is in app mode. 

So is it a clutch or software issue? 

If it was a clutch issue, then I will probably find the mount's tracking axis slipping or rotating unexpectedly, when it is loaded up. That could account for the trailing in all my images the other night. However, against that is the fact that in Live View - the stars didnt change their positions at all. So this is really bizarre! 

On a slipping clutch, you would expect to see the following symptoms/issues: 

  • sudden movement in camera/telescope even with clutch being tight
  • drifting during long exposures
  • star trailing across the frame
  • noticeable slip or play when trying to rotate the mount by hand when the clutch is engaged
  • clicking and grinding noises
I have to say I haven't noticed any of these symptoms, so I am beginning to move away from this as an issue. 

This morning I checked and then re-checked that I had tightened the clutch fully and correctly before the test runs. Excessive tightening can cause damage so I am being careful and paranoid! 

So, that brings me back to software issues?  Lets hope the firmware update solves the issue. If it doesn't I need to find a repairer of trackers based in the UK? Know of anyone? Let me know in the comment box and thanks. 


Meanwhile, I did, as you will have seen in last post, manage to get some imaging done. And here is the initial result. Welcome to NGC 457 'The Owl Cluster' 

So, what can we see in this image?


Firstly, the acquisition details - 45 x 120” lights and no calibration frames. Stacked in Affinity Photo and then cropped, denoised and background extraction in GraXpert. Finally further processing in Affinity Photo once more.

The larger cluster is NGC 457 The owl cluster – which is sort of obvious – when you look closely – and imagine an owl shape! It is also known as the ‘ET’ cluster. I like this nomenclature better! Huge ET fan!

NGC 457 is one of the star clusters in Cassiopeia, discovered by Friedrich Herschel in 1789, and comprises of two bright stars of 5th magnitude which form the eyes. Scattered rows of fainter stars then make up the arms and the body.

The cluster contains over 100 stars and is a relatively young star cluster about 7,900 light years away from us.

The very bright star?

Ruchbah, the fourth brightest star in the Cassiopeia constellation, derives its name from Arabic – the word means ‘knee’.  It is 99 light years away, so its light takes almost a century to reach us. With a surface temperature around 8400 K, it is somewhat warmer than our own sun and its radius is just under four times the diameter of our own star.

A giant or sub-giant star, Ruchbal’s hydrogen fusion core is shutting down and so this 600million year old star is in its death throes. Ten million years from now it will be a much larger orange giant.

And what about the smaller star cluster? This is NGC 436 – 30 or so 11th magnitude, fainter stars.

And here is a cropped version losing Ruchbal!  Sorry Ruchbal! 


UPDATE: 
Have I broken my star adventurer?

No, I don't think so. I have tested it for three days now and it seems to be tracking as it should. The 'string dangling a pencil trick' worked in showing the movement more easily. The software firmware upgrade seems to have cured things. I double checked with First Light Optics and The Widescreen Centre that I hadn't inadvertently overloaded the mount -   my largest rig weighs in at 4.3kg and both retailers felt that should be OK.

So, I need to wait for a clear night and then go test things again! Wish me luck!  

Saturday, 1 February 2025

Making basic astrophotography mistakes 1

 Newly arrived to my blog? Want to know more about me before you dive into my posts? Why not visit the home page first and start your exploration from there: 

https://undersouthwestskies.blogspot.com/2025/01/welcome-to-my-new-astronomyastrophotogr.html

And welcome. Welcome to 'UnderSouthWest Skies'. Thanks for stopping by. I hope you find the experience worthwhile. This blog post has been written from my own 'beginner perspective' after doing lots of reading on the topic below.  In getting my head around it all, I may have got odd bits slightly wrong; but, like you, I am on a leaning journey, so please forgive any unintentional errors.  Meanwhile, clear skies to you. Take care and thanks for visiting   Steve aka PlymouthAstroBoy 


Date: 31st January 2025

Location: Wembury Beach car park

Time:  Arrived around 1815 - set up by 1900. Polar alignment completed by 1915 

Conditions: perfect - cloudless skies until 0100; no wind; temperature 3C falling to 1C by 0000. 

Target: NGC1499 The California Nebula

Equipment used: SWSA2i, Canon 800D unmodded, Zenithstar 61ii, various power banks etc; 

Shooting plan intentions:  40 x 300" lights and then 15 of each calibration frame 

A treat - arriving at sunset to see the new crescent moon; 
just to the east of it - Venus and just to the east of that Neptune

I love having a plan for a shooting night. I hate it when the plan goes out of the window almost immediately! 

Initial balancing of the tracker went fine in both RA and DEC. Polar alignment was spot on. 

Would it track? 

No! All over the place - at one time the tracking went 'West 50 steps' and still hadn't timed out. Without guiding - there was star trailing after 5".  

Four times I broke the rig down and reassembled it. Four separate polar alignments, all accurate. Four balancing the tracker - all done. 

Still the same result. I lost two hours of shooting time. 

I changed the tracker batteries as well by the way. I tried everything - altering calibration settings in my ASIair mini - the lot! Nothing. Nada! 😱

the useless tracking - four attempts to get autoguiding and exposures of 120" to no avail

repositioning to image something to the north led to pinpoint sharp stars 
and then  on guiding as well 

Eventually, I managed to get the whole thing to guide accurately and also shoot 120" exposures on the Owl Cluster. It was just to the North West of Polaris and so my small refractor scope with its camera were facing to the north west. It seemed to cope with this position as the counterweights were just off the vertical downward position and the camera/refractor rig almost over the top of the tracker. 


At 0400 this morning and sat bolt up right. Wait for it! Its a classic!  Don't judge me! You will want to but resist the temptation! 😳

The sudden realisation - I had used the wrong counterweight bar on the tracker. 


Let me explain. I have two counterweight bars. 

One has an extra 6 oz lead screwed into the base and uses just one normal counterweight - I use this for my samyang 135mm and canon rig. Balances and tracks perfectly. 

The second counterweight bar - uses just two normal counterweights and I use that on the zenithstar. Balances it perfectly and the tracker seems to do its thing with no problem at all. 


Yep, you are one step ahead here - I used the two counterweights AND the extra 6oz or so counterweight bar.

So, my thinking. I think the tracker couldn't cope with the extra weight and so wouldn't lift properly. The position to shoot the nebula was with the camera and refractor rig to the east and the counterweights to the west and the whole assembly was practically horizontal to the ground. 

So I am left wondering whether the tracker just couldn't cope with the weight and so the guiding wouldn't function either? 

Paranoid that I have stripped the gears in my tracker, I now have the rig fully assembled in the front room and I am testing that the tracker is working as it should. I will let you know the outcome in a few hours! 😬


PS: at least I got to see the parade of planets across the night - starting in the east with Mars just by Castor and Pollux, across to Jupiter and then the other planets as mentioned above. 


Meanwhile - I am feeling sooooo stupid! 😕


Friday, 31 January 2025

A beginners guide to using SIRIL - some notes to get you started

 Newly arrived to my blog? Want to know more about me before you dive into my posts? Why not visit the home page first and start your exploration from there: 

https://undersouthwestskies.blogspot.com/2025/01/welcome-to-my-new-astronomyastrophotogr.html

And welcome. Welcome to 'UnderSouthWest Skies'. Thanks for stopping by. I hope you find the experience worthwhile. This blog post has been written from my own 'beginner perspective' after doing lots of reading on the topic below.  In getting my head around it all, I may have got odd bits slightly wrong; but, like you, I am on a leaning journey, so please forgive any unintentional errors.  Meanwhile, clear skies to you. Take care and thanks for visiting   Steve aka PlymouthAstroBoy 



 My beginners guide to basic editing in Siril

As a beginner to astronomy and astrophotography, and with a limited budget for spending on the hobbies, I am always on the lookout for ‘free’ software. Two fantastic programs are SIRIL and GraXpert. My post editing workflow uses these two and I do ‘finishing’ edits in Affinity Photo, which I have had for a few years now.

Like any new programs, the initial learning curve can be steep and so I found this to be with SIRIL. However, two things came to my rescue. Firstly, this YouTube channel: Deep Space Astro – a fantastic channel; I made so many notes and went through his videos so many times, step by step, whilst actually processing an image in Siril.

https://www.youtube.com/@DeepSpaceAstro

And then this book – “Astrophotography Image Processing with GraXpert, Siril and Gimp” by Max Dobres FRAS.

I discovered this book via a Facebook post on an astrophotography group in November which showed a similar flow diagram to one I was already working on to summarise my own workflow (I am a bit of a visual learner) which is below:

My diagram above now amended, incorporates some of the elements of that original flow diagram I saw in the Facebook astrophotography group.  

Max's book was fascinating. There was much I knew already from the videos and my internet reserach notes  but then there were constant snippets on his pages, where I thought "Oooooh"! And his screen grab images were really helpful. 



So below, I now share my SIRIL, GraXpert and Affinity Photo work flow.

As always, I provide a caveat which is this: Like you, I am a beginner. I am finding my feet slowly but surely in the new to me fields of astronomy, astrophotography, and photo editing in AF. If I have made any mistakes below then please accept my humble apologies and drop me a comment at the end of the post so that I can correct it immediately.

These are my notes from the videos, internet research etc. I have had them printed off and they’ve sat alongside my laptop EVERY TIME I do any post editing of deep space objects since late 2023. They are written in a shorthand but it should be fairly clear. I have made minor alterations in light of what I have read in Max’s book. He goes into great detail and includes really help diagrams and screen grab images. If you get stuck, then DeepSpaceAstro on YouTube will have a video about it, no doubt. If you want to develop further – its worth getting Max’s book off Amazon.

 

Good luck, if you use these notes and please do let me know how it goes. If you think there should be amendments, then drop me a comment.

 

S.I.R.I.L instructions – my work flow 

Firstly, open Siril and familiarise self with home screen. Select console tab on right hand side.

1.                   STEP ONE - STACKING

a.       Create a new folder on hard drive – called Siril

b.       Create four new folders within this Siril folder  – name them ‘biases’, ‘flats’, ‘lights’, ‘darks’

c.        Click on HOME (top left hand side) – change directory folder to this Siril folder created in (a) above

d.       Select SCRIPTS on top menu – select ‘OSC processing’ – run this script

e.       Watch progress of stacking on the console tab, right hand side

f.         When it has finished, load up newly created ‘results.fits’ file from this home Siril folder

g.       At this stage, if need to free up hard drive space, can delete newly created ‘process’ and ‘masters’ folders from the master Siril folder

h.       NOTE:  if not using calibration frames – SCRIPT – select right one; and ensure you have left flats, darks, biases folders empty


2.                   STEP TWO - IMAGE PROCESSING


a.       With ‘results.fits’ image open in screen, on bottom menu select auto-stretch to preview data and review in RGB

b.       Now preview separate R, G, B channels and then return to RGB channel


3.                   STEP THREE – SWITCH TO USING GRAXPERT FOR BACKGROUND EXTRACTION


a.       DO THIS BEFORE ANY STRETCHING OF THE IMAGE in Siril

b.       Load up saved ‘results.fits’ image created in Siril folder

c.        Select advanced tab on RHS and switch on AI ‘Background Extraction’ and ‘AI Denoise’

d.       Change bottom panel stretch to 30%

e.       Step 1 - Crop to remove any artifacts. Immediately save this image as ‘results.GxpCrp.fits’

f.         Return to 15% stretch at bottom tab

g.       Step 2 - Background extraction tab – select AI – smoothing to 0.5% - click ‘calculate background’

h.       When done change top tab to ‘gradient corrected’. (Original on this tab shows pre BG). Now save image as  ‘results.GxpCrpBge.fits’

i.         Step 3 - Denoising tab – default strength is 0.5 – can experiment with 0.8 or 0.9; click ‘denoise’ – zoom in to see changes (hold down control and use mouse wheel). When done save image as ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDno.fits’

j.         Change top tab to denoise gradient

k.       (NOTE: can do Bottom tab – saturation (adds more colour to image) now or leave to Siril)

l.         Return to SIRIL and reopen this saved image ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDno.fits’ and continue SIRIL work flow

 

NOTE: How to do background extraction in Siril

If working on Background extract in SIRIL:

1.                   With newly created image file ‘results.fits’ – open either green, red or blue channel tab but NOT the RGB one.

2.                   Image processing top menu – click ‘Background extraction’

3.                   On new pop up dialogue box - Change grid tolerance to 3 if there are missing orange squares on part of image background OR left click in that area to add a square. Keep only the BG squares – take squares off nebula and around really bright stars. To remove a star - right click on square to remove. Click dither. Keep on subtraction. Now click ‘compute background’ button – and then click apply

4.                   NOTES: (polynominal tab – select 1 to 4 depending on how bad a gradient is – worse the gradient  the higher the number to select). (RBF tab – recommended to use – smoothing = how aggressively applied – 0.5 is default setting)

If working on denoising in Siril

1.                   Select ‘Auto-stretch’ mode on bottom tab

2.                   Top tab – image processing – ‘noise reduction’

3.                   In new pop up dialogue box - Check ‘salt and pepper’ box. Colour denoising – off. Modulation 0.5

4.                   Default setting is ‘no secondary denoising stage’ – modulation 1 = full noise reduction – zoom in 100% on image and hit apply – experiment and do undo and redo to see changes

5.                   However, Anscombe VST OR data adaptive is better method - do trial and error between them – use undo/do buttons. Too much smoothing or smearing at edges of nebulae on new image – undo - adjust modulation slider – redo

6.                   Save image under new file name – this means can always go back a step and eload previous image if something goes wrong


4.                   STEP FOUR - COLOUR CALIBRATION IN SIRIL


a.       Make sure have image open - ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDno.fits’

b.       Set lower tab to ‘autostretch’

c.        Top tab – image processing – select colour calibration – select ‘Photometric calibration’

d.       In new dialogue box - search for DSO by entering its catalogue number e.g M101 or M42. Alter focal length inputs or use metadata within photo box to set the focal length details if used ASIair. Tick ‘flip image’ if need be. Select ‘auto’ under ‘catalogue limit’. Then click apply

e.       NOTE: BG reference – choose one of the colour channels – draw square on image in area representing best background area – Tick use current selection on dialogue box – BG neutralisation – do white reference on bright white star – apply

f.         Go to RGB and use backwards and forwards arrows on top menu to toggle between before and after changes.  When happy save this refined image as ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDnoPcc.fits’


5.                   STEP FIVE - DECONVOLUTION IN SIRIL


a.       Bottom tab – select ‘Linear

b.       Top tab - Image processing – ‘deconvolution’

c.        In newly popped up dialogue box – Default is  ‘blind deconvolution’ to generate PSF image – click apply

d.       NOTE: for experienced people - Other option to try – ‘PSF using stars’

e.       OR: see below –

f.         Deconvolution  MUST USE LINEAR NON STRETCHED IMAGE  so ensure in linear mode on bottom tab

                                                   i.      Simple option approach a - hamburger icon top right – image info – dynamic PSF – blind DC box ticked(essentially as steps above)

                                                 ii.      Approach b – image processing – ‘star processing’ – ‘full resynthesis’ – click the cog wheel. Drag the pop-up dialogue box to RHS

                                                iii.      Back on the image - create green ‘selection box’ over centre of image – right hand mouse click - crop;

                                                iv.      Image processing – star processing – cog wheel – dynamic psf – click ‘detect stars icon’ – aiming for white star that appears in top RHC to be unclipped in PSF preview box i.e. star is fully within the box and has some blackness all around it

                                                 v.      On resulting chart – click column a to sort from dimmest to brightest stars – want to keep only those 0.1 to 0.7 amplitude – fill in boxes at bottom to get this range; profile type to ‘moffat’.

                                                vi.      Click ‘detect stars’ icon

                                              vii.      Reduce PSF box down out of sight in RHC of screen

                                             viii.      Top tab - Image processing – deconvolution – select PSF from stars – generate PSF; then click download arrow alongside generate PSF button to save this image. Save as ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDnoPccDecon.fits’

                                                ix.      Bring back dynamic PSF box into view from bottom RHC – now doing test settings on the cropped image and when finally done will click undo right back to where image was uncropped – meanwhile on cropped image select ‘Richard lucy algorithm’ and ‘non blind deconvolution’ – start with default settings – keep other algorithm to gradient descent – click apply

                                                  x.      Zoom in and check for star fringing, ringing etc – (control hold down and use mouse wheel); toggle before and after arrows in top menu to judge change

                                                xi.      Click undo arrow and increase gradient step size a little and repeat zoom in to see effect

                                              xii.      Repeat this pattern until happy with changes – note the settings used

                                             xiii.      Click undo now until returning to uncropped image – in Deconvolution box put in settings and click apply on full image. Save any alterations as  ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDnoPccDecon.fits’

 

6.               6. STAR SEPARATION/STRETCH/RECOMBINATION WORKFLOW USING USING STARNETT++ in SIRIL

 

NOTE: if you haven’t downloaded STARNET++ add on into your Siril program – do so now. 


a.       Top tab - Imaging processing – ‘star processing’ – ‘starnet++ removal’

b.       On new pop-up dialogue box – tick ‘pre-stretch linear image’  and ‘generate star mask’ – make sure still in linear mode on bottom bar – then click execute

c.        Stretching the new Starless NEBULOSITY image which is the one that should be on screen now (NOTE YOU CAN DO THIS IN AFFINITY PHOTO – SEE NOTES AT END OF THIS SECTION)

                                                   i.      start in linear mode on bottom tab

                                                 ii.      on top tab – image processing  – ‘histogram transformation’ (MTF)

d.       In new popup dialogue box - Click on cog symbol – if happy with changes to image then click  ‘apply’. If not happy click ‘reset’ and then following below

                                                   i.      Set ‘zoom amount’ in box (top tab LHC) to 1. Adjust middle triangle on base of histogram  leftwards as far as can go. Now increase the zoom number value at top to create more space at base of histogram – slide the middle triangle leftwards again until gaining pleasing image; TIP – keep this first stretch slightly dark to avoid blowing out any cores – if happy with image  – click ‘apply’ and image as ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDnoPccDeconStarless.fits’ 


e.       Alternative from AFTER step(b) above

                                                   i.      stretch line sliders below the histogram graph area  until ‘nebulosity’ appears on black image; use -/+ button to do black point adjustments  OR

                                                 ii.      middle triangle at base of histogram  to LHS to get histogram off LHS. Then alter shadow slider in to base of histogram – keep figures on right at 0 to 0.1. Choose colours menu and do appropriate for each colour as prefer (can draw box onto part of nebula – hone in on different parts of it – then go to symmetry point – hit eyedropper on LHS – then move stretch slider)

                                                iii.      SAVE FILE TWICE– firstly, as results.GxpCrpBgeDnoPccDeconStarless.fits’. Then resave again but this time as results.GxpCrpBgeDnoPccDeconStarless.tiff’  (as tiff 16 bit unsigned).

                                                iv.      NOTE: advanced action - could at this point – open tiff file in affinity photo an do some levels and curves adjustments. Save as 16 bits Tiff file and then bring back to Siril. Open it and immediately save it as fits file! This is one which will then carry on with in Siril.  


7.                   STEP SEVEN - GHS STRETCHING AND COLOUR SATURATION IN SIRIL

 

The aim of a GHS stretch, as I understand it, is to stretch the pixel values out across the whole range of brightness. We do a series of stretches to different areas of image to bring out detail and improve contrast where interesting features lie.  Starting with an overall stretch, successive stretches are applied to different areas to maximise the potential of image. Principles of GHS:  ‘S’ curves (to flatten either end of pixel distribution and boost mid-range pixels.) Done by a) defining symmetry point (sp) = centre of curve and b) local intensity – the range of the S curve. Slider adjusts strength of stretch. AIM: to bring out most detail and contrast in image

a.       Bottom tab – make sure selected linear mode

b.       Top tab - Image processing – ‘GHS’

c.        In pop up window

                                                   i.      Symmetry point to 0.5 or click middle of line on histogram; zoom level is ‘1’

                                                 ii.      Method one: if focusing on nebulae or galaxies – focus on outer rim details:

1.       GHS rim detail – left mouse click on image to draw box in area of interest e.g. outer rim detail

2.       Click on dropper symbol to set the SP value

3.       Stretch factor slider moved to get level of detail required

4.       Local stretch factor slider moved to modify extent of stretch factor slider

5.       Go back and forth between two until pleasing result (could try Local stretch slider full across to rhs and then Stretch factor slider until nebula appears – stop before background gets too grey); aiming to form an S curve on histogram – click ‘apply’ when happy

6.       Then change to a ‘linear black point stretch’ in top menu of pop up box  – slide BK point slider to close gap base of LHS of histogram curve

7.       NOTE: Stop highlights blowing out when adjusting for midtones by pulling back the highlight protection point  - on logarithmic scale the red line on histogram will be very steep where detail is but then the incline should be far less steep for rest of the histogram

                                                iii.      Method two – for GHS odust detail – draw box on area wanted to impact

1.       Set the SP point as above with box

2.       Adjust strength and local intensity values as above to get effect pleasing

3.       Move shadows and highlight protection sliders to stop highlights blowing out

                                                iv.      On both methods above -

1.       Change back to GHS at top  - logarithmic scale – check box on left – aiming to get straight line from peak to bottom lowest point (humps = areas where lower contrast needed; valleys = where more contrast needed) – click to left of very top of histogram curve to set symmetry point – now stretch slider a little; then local stretch slider to add or remove contrast and to try and smooth the line.

2.       Repeat for bottom of curve rhs – click to set symmetry point an repeat step above – use local stretch curve to add/remove contrast

                                                 v.      Method three – GHS colour stretching

1.       Aim to improve colours – turning colour buttons on and off

2.       Boost blue – a tiny amount – click off other colour channels – draw square around area of DSO that represents brightness area where we want to boost blue – click on dropper to set SP.  Play with strength and local intensity sliders to get effect as outlined above.

3.       Use shadow and highlight protection point sliders to squeeze the affected area away from edges of histogram by keeping them close to the SP

4.       May need to move SP to get blue boost in right place  - then click apply

5.       Add touch of red – use same process outlined above LESS IS BETTER

6.       Improving saturation top right menu to colour saturation stretch. Boosts all colours. Check zoom at 1.

                                                vi.      Remember to save your image after GHS: ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDnoPccDeconStarlessGhs.fits’


8.                   If not doing colour saturation above as part of GHS work then - COLOUR SATURATION


a.       Top tab - Image processing – ‘colour saturation’ – hue on global.

b.       Amount > increases colour saturation – try between 0.25 and 0.5.

c.        Click background factor to allow sky background to be protected from colour saturation

d.       Experiment and when happy - apply

e.       Click save: ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDnoPccDeconStarlessGhsCos.fits’


9.                   ALTERING CONTRAST AND DETAIL in SIRIL


a.       Top menu tab - Image processing – ‘contrast limited adaptive histogram equalisation’ (CLAHE)

b.       Use it lightly – small adjustments to avoid introducing artefacts

c.        Use preview box to see before and after

d.       Save as ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDnoPccDeconStarlessGhsCosCon.fits’


10.                REMOVAL GREEN HUES

a.       Top menu tab - Image processing – ‘sub-chromatic green noise’

b.       After using default settings – save image as ‘results.GxpCrpBgeDnoPccDeconStarlessGhsCosConGno.fits’  If unhappy with file name this long – try saving as ‘resultsfinalstarless1.fits’


11.                Note: you can do stretching etc in affinity photo rather than here in Siril.  When you open your image in AP – you can do your curves and level adjustments, shadows/highlights etc to sort contrast. Critical is the saving bit at end – save the image in AP – export it as a tiff RETURN TO SIRIL

Open this Tiff  in SIRIL; click save down arrow and rename file as starless etc but FITs at end. Click 32 bit and now work on this fits image.

NOTE: you can do similar for working on the star image below – if AP if desire

 


12.            STRETCHING ON STAR IMAGE IN STARNET++


a.       Open the unstretched stars image from your master Siril folder – it will be labelled as resultsstarmask.fits or something similar

b.       Top tab - Image processing – ‘histogram transformation’ – making sure display option on bottom tab is LINEAR

c.        On pop-up box - zoom factor is 1 and all graph colour buttons below histogram are set to on

d.       At base of histogram - Middle ‘mid tones’ triangle slide to left until stars begin to appear on image

e.       Adjust zoom number at top - > it, triangle will move to right – move it back left again

f.         Keep going – stars will get brighter and more numerous – keep going until value in midtones box is around 0.002 and zoom value is around 60 – 70   If happy with amount of stars visible       Click apply  if unhappy – reset the histogram and start again – experiment trial and error

g.       When happy save as ‘resultsstarmaskstr.fits’ or something similar



13.            STARNET STAR RECOMPOSITION PROCESS


a.       Top menu tab - Image processing – star processingstar recomposition

b.       Load both images back up in relevant histograms. MAKE SURE RIGHT IMAGE GOES WITH RIGHT HISTOGRAM:  your stretched stars image goes in ‘star stretch parameters’. Your starless nebulosity image loads in to ‘background stretch parameters’.

c.        Make tint slider adjustments under each histogram. When happy with each click apply under each histogram and check progress in console tab on RHS.

d.       Save this recombined image as something like ‘M42final.fits’ or whatever target you have been imaging


Other things you can do in Siril


14.                REMOVING GRADIENTS IN SIRIL


a.       Image processing – BG extraction – Polynominal – simple gradients. The higher the number chosen, the more complex the gradient

b.       Best to use RBF method – choose small smoothing changes – default setting is 0.5

c.        The larger the number of amples per line – the longer taken to process

d.       Grid tolerance – adjust so that samples not on stars or DSO’s that do not belong to the background sky

e.       Add dither

f.         Generate creates grid – clear – clears it

g.       Correction – subtracts background sky


15.                TO REDUCE BANDING IN IMAGE


a.       Auto-stretch

b.       Image processing – banding reduction – apply (use default settings)

c.        To prevent it affecting brightness of image – tick protect from highlights box; select vertical banding if it is also present


16.                STAR REDUCTION IN SIZE


a.       Image processing – star reduction MTF – it will close image down; bottom right hand script menu – green light will show processing – when red – means finished.  Save image

b.       To compare this new image with original – open original file used before doing star reduction process; open this final one working on

c.        Use little triangle button next to open – toggle between new and original image to see differences 

d.       Want smaller – re-run process again     Save file as reduced stars_final.fit


Using affinity photo for final polishing edits


17.                GO TO AFFINITY PHOTO 


a.       curve and level adjustments for colour, contrast, brightness) and do for R,G, B individual colours as well. TINY changes.

b.       Shadows/highlights.

c.        Sharpening and denoise.

d.       Colour adjustments and saturation

e.       Other level adjustments as see fit.

f.         SAVE AS TIFF; SAVE PNG AND/OR JPEG AS WELL; SAVE AS AFFINITY PHOTO WORK FILE



18.                IF NOT DOING STARTNET++ REDUCTION in Siril

a.        go back to section 2 image processing – this will now follow on from point 11:

b.       do a histogram stretch – select linear mode on bottom menu – image processing – histogram transformation – auto-stretch cog wheel – apply. Repeat step and make fine adjustments with sliders.

c.        Colour saturation – image processing – colour saturation – experiment with different levels etc


19.                TIPS AND TRICKS IN SIRIL 

Ctrl

+O

open an image

Ctrl

+Z

Undo previous command

Ctrl

+S

Save loaded image

Shift+Ctrl

+Z

Redo previous command

Shift+Ctrl

+S

Save loaded image with new file name

Ctrl

+I

Negative transformation

Ctrl

+W

Close image

Ctrl

+east arrow

Rotate 90d clockwise

Ctrl

++

Zoom in

Ctrl

+west arrow

Rotate 90d anticlockwise

Ctrl

+-

Zoom out

Ctrl

+vertical arrow

Horizontal mirror

Ctrl

+0

Fit image to window

Ctrl

+down arrow

Vertical mirror

Ctrl

+1

Zoom image to 100%

Ctrl

+

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ctrl

+P

Open preferences

Shift+Ctrl

+A

Open plate solving dialogue

F10

 

Open application menu

Shift+Ctrl

+P

Open photometric colour calibration

Ctrl

+F6

Open dynamic PSF window

Ctrl

+/

Search an object in the image

Ctrl

+D

Change working directory

Shift+Ctrl

+C

Copy snapshot to clipboard

Ctrl

+F

Full screen on/off

F5

 

switch to plot page

Ctrl

+T

Hide/show toolbar

F6

 

Switch to the stacking page

F1

 

Switch to conversion page

F7

 

Switch to the output logs page 

F2

 

Switch to sequence page

Ctrl

+Q

Quit the application

F3

 

Switch to pre-processing page

 

 

 

F4

 

Switch to registration page

 

 

 

  

I hope these notes are of help – they are my workflow – written as a beginner and as I gain further experience, I am sure I will refine them. I made the mistake of trying to get to grips with astronomy and telescopes, astrophotography, and then basic photo editing in affinity photo – all at the same time. Stupid mistake but there we go – heck of a learning journey, I guess!

As always, if you are more experienced at all this and have any useful tips regarding workflow order, please share them in the comment box below so that we beginners can see them and learn from them. Appreciated.

Clear skies. Stay safe, have fun out there.

Steve

 

PS – I can not place enough emphasis on this – two fantastic resources that beginners should know about:

Youtube channel: DeepSpaceAstro

Book: Astrophotography Image Processing with Siril, GraXpert and GIMP  by Max Dobres FRAS  

ISBN 9798338039373  Pub: 2024