About Me

My photo
A retired Welshman living in wonderful Plymouth in SW England, I’m a family man, novice sailor and boat builder, astrophotographer and motorhomer. With a passion for all things to do with education and the sea and skies above, I have a sense of adventure and innate curiosity. I write three blogs. ‘Arwen’s Meanderings’ charts my learning to sail a self-built John Welsford designed ‘Navigator’ yawl. Look out for her accompanying YouTube channel www.YouTube.com/c/plymouthwelshboy . ‘UnderSouthWestSkies’ follows my learning journey as I take up astronomy and astrophotography; a blog for beginner’s new to these hobbies, just like me. ‘Wherenexthun’, a co-written blog with my wife Maggie, shares how we ‘newbies’ get to grips with owning ‘Bryony’ an ‘Autosleeper’s Broadway EB’ motorhome, and explores our adventures traveling the UK and other parts of Europe. Come participate in one or more of our blogs. Drop us a comment, pass on a tip, share a photo. I look forward to meeting you. Take care now and have fun. Steve (and Maggie)

Saturday, 13 December 2025

Beginner tutorial: workflow for using SIRIL 1.4 includiung GraXpert and Cosmic Clarity Suite Pro python scripts

 Optimal workflow using SIRIL with COSMIC CLARITY SUITE PRO, GRAXPERT and AFFINITY PHOTO

I have written a previous post about my SIRIL workflow which you can find here  https://undersouthwestskies.blogspot.com/2025/01/a-beginners-guide-to-using-siril-some.html

In this post I 

·       share my more simplified, reorganised workflow - which is based on SIRIL vs 1.4, and the python scripts for Cosmic Clarity Suite (by Seti Astro) and GraXpert. 

·       Try to give notes and tips which will help beginners

·       Share some useful, helpful YouTube tutorials

So, let’s get stuck straight in to my latest workflow: PLEASE NOTE - screenshots will be added when I process my next image - so please bear with me until then 

NOTE: I am assuming you have a little knowledge of how to organise your images – if you are going to be using SIRIL – if you are new to SIRIL the jump down to the bottom to watch one or two of the videos first.

 

A.      Organisation:

1.      Organise your folders into one folder called SIRIL and then sub folders for – lights, biases, darks and flats

2.      Set your home directory top menu bar left hand side

3.      Choose scripts – siril script files  - OSC pre-processing.ssf  to start the stacking process

 

B.      Crop and gradient removal:

1.      Be in autostretch mode on bottom task bar

2.      Load results.fits file produced from your stacking script – find in your home directory

3.      Crop edges to remove stacking artefacts

4.      Tools – astrometry  - image plate solver  on the pop up window:

a.      In pop up window - search catalogue number; (S box = if southern hemisphere image); click metadata from image; check – siril solver, solution order – cubic, flip image, auto-crop for wide field, star catalogue auto, catalogue limit – auto.

5.      Background extraction – image processing – python scripts - AutoBGe seti

a.      use default settings in the pop up window initially i.e. sample points 100, polynominal 2 RBF smoothness – 0.1.  (L-Enhance note - Use degree 2 to avoid flattening extended Ha regions).

b.      On the pop up window – can opt to click add exclusion area – (this is what you don’t want extracted) – free hand draw in around nebula area to be excluded – if make a mistake – click clear selection and start again – then when ready click process

c.      Use undo/redo arrows to compare before and after to see the changes

NOTES: background extraction

1.      Can use GraXpert for BGE  – GraXpert uses AI model - don’t do denoise now just BGEsevere gradients <0.5; mild gradients >0.5

6.      If using SIRIL BGE grid tolerance 3, squares off nebula and bright stars; click dither to on; subtraction on; polynominal – increase for very bad gradients – RBF tab – smoothing default 0.5

 

C.     Colour calibration:

1.      NOTE – must have done image plate solver before doing colour calibration

2.      Autostretch mode on lower menu bar

3.      Remove chromatic aberration – python script - aberration remover – can do now or after colour calibration – either

4.      Plate solve image – if not already done above MUST DO BEFORE COLOUR CALLIBRATION WORK  - needs internet connection

5.      Colour calibrationimage processing tab – colour calibration - Spectrophotometric colour calibration

a.      SPCC – needs internet – tick the following: average spiral galaxy, one shot colour, osc sensor – closest, osc filter – optolong L pro OR if narrow band – check narrow band box and enter your filter details ( L enhance details for table – see below; tick background reference to auto detection.

b.      Settings if using L-enHance filter - – wavelength : blue OIII – 500; Green HB – 486; red H-alpha 656.3 and BW – OIII green 24; red 10; Blue 24

 

D.     Cosmic clarity sharpening  before denoise

a.       DO BEFORE STRETCHING I.E. LINEAR DATA

                                                  i.      stellar = stars only; non stellar = background and other objects - do both stellar and non stellar on pop up window OR experiment using undo/redo arrows – use GPU, clear input directory, (stellar sharpening  - 0.5 default and play with slider; or move first slider to 0.20 to 0.25; non stellar slider to 0.80; non stellar strength to 3. Zoom in a check – use undo and redo buttons to see differences made

b.      OPTIONAL – could do DENOISE now – scripts – python scripts - CC denoise – use RGB channel; check GPU and Clear input directory

c.      Now find output folder in Cosmic Clarity home folder and delete files as you go.



E   OPTIONAL stretching now – using Veralux hypermetric Stretching  NOTE – SEE F BELOW BEFORE DECIDING

a.      MUST DO PLATE SOLVING AND SPCC COLOUR BEFORE HAND

b.      Linear view – then Scripts – python scripts – processing – Veralux hypermetric stretching

c.      Settings for pop-up window:

a.      Processing – ready to use

b.      Sensor calibration – top one or canon 600d or 709re recommended.

c.      Click live view – use mouse scroll wheel to zoom in and out

d.      Target background – start 0.10 (0.2 is default) (lower the number the more contrast and darker the image – higher the number the less contrast and brighter the image)

e.      Log D – strength of stretch – leave at default 2.00

f.        Click auto calculate

g.       Protect B – how protected stars are during stretch – leave on default

h.      Star core recovery – leave default 3.5

i.        Process

j.        Make adjustments and experiment with setting inputs until happy

k.       If over saturated use the slider – but RECOMMENDATION IS DON’T TOUCH THE SLIDER – chromatic preservation colour one  - after alteration click auto calculate again

l.        Can also now apply curves transformation if image looking too washed out etc – or wait until starnet

d.      If choose scientific – then after do series of transform curve stretches in siril to bring up contrast and colour – s curves to raise darks, MT and HL’s


F. Star removal: I always DO BEFORE STRETCHING

1.      Optional first step: Image processing – star  processing desaturate stars

2.      Image processing – star processing - Starnet – tick prestretch in pop up window

3.      Stretching starless nebulakeep linear below in bottom menu

a.      OPTIONS: either Veralux hypermetric stretch as above OR Cosmic Clarity statistical stretch – see below

                                                  i.      Statistical stretch – in linear mode - target median 0.11 for anything not filling entire frame; normalise- no curves adjustment; if fully fills frame target median at 0.25 starter.

                                                 ii.      Stretch until: - Nebula structure is visible      Background is not clipped   Stars not blown out – NB if done colour correction already must check linked stretch box.
Now the image is nonlinear and ready for detail work.

b.      NOTE – CAN STILL DO OLD WAY IF DESIRE – SEE BELOW:

                                                  i.      OR asinh stretch first followed by HTF stretch  (HTF stretch using lhs and middle triangles or placing points on curve line to get shallow s curve  - watch clipping % - ensure no clipping of data –  ( can use ROI – draw box on part of nebula – right click select |ROI – select ‘set to selection’ and do adjustments; to remove – go back to menu and click ‘clear ROI’

                                                 ii.      OR Can also retry with curves adjustment ticked – try boost slider at 0.5 – the greater the boost the more contrast and fainter detail at expense of more noise and artefacts - 

                                               iii.      OR can do curves transformation – tiny iterative changes and repeat image processing – stretches – curves transformation – click on line and drag up or down – aim shallow s curve – don’t clip data – make very small adjustments – repeat gently LESS is MORE 

EXPERIMENT WITH EACH UNTIL HAPPY – use undo/redo arrows

4.      Complete denoise now – scripts – python scripts – processing – cosmic clarity denoise Denoise

a.      In pop up windopw - full strength – do zoom in and undo/redo to check difference

b.      alternative is denoise in siril  - if using GRaXpert – default stretch 0.5 so try 0.8

 

(NOTE – could try  SETI ENHANCER if you have it downloaded — Star Control, Detail Boost, Color Punch at this stage -
Load the denoised stretched image into SETI Enhancer.

·        Star Reduction - Use after stretch, not before.   Strength: 10–30%    Helps separate the nebula from crowded star fields      Avoid “donut-shaped” stars—dial back if seen

·        Nebula Detail Enhancement   Use:   Local contrast      Midtone sharpening    Texture boost
Moderate levels keep it natural.

·        Color Enhancement
Increase nebula saturation       Adjust hue sliders for Ha/OIII separation      Use vibrance before saturation
Avoid boosting star colours too strongly

·        Background Balancing
Use background equalizer if available     Ensure background is smooth and neutral
Remove remaining gradients)


G. Process starmask:

1.      Could Desaturate stars now – see above where outlined previously

2.      Can do Asinh stretch or  htf stretch – keep mild – use square and eyedropper Asinh Stretch:  Broadband: 5–15 L-Enhance: 3–8    Black point: 0.001–0.003   

3.      If doing GHS: Stretch: 0.8–1.2     Midtones:  Broadband: 0.3–0.5  L-Enhance: 0.2–0.35

Stop here.  Do not adjust saturation, HDR, clarity, sharpening. OR

4.      Could Reduce star size now image processing - morphological transformation – selection – strength 5 – 20%

5.      Optional Slight saturation boost  - image processing – colour saturation: do globally


H. Star re-composition:

1.      Image processing – star processing – star re-composition

2.      On pop up histograms - RHS is starmask; LHS is starless

3.      Do black point adjustment to starmask to reduce number of stars

4.      Adjust blend to avoid halos and bright stars – inspect fine details – zoom to check edges

5.      Final noise reduction – optional light GraXpert or cc denoise – avoid over-smoothing background or killing faint dust


Final tweaks:

1.      Vibrance, colour balance

2.      Final cropping/rotation  to choice

3.      Green noise check – SCNR (Green Noise Removal) – BEST = SIRIL   Broadband: Strength: 0.60–0.75  L-Enhance:  Use none or mild (0.20–0.35)      OIII contains green, so don't destroy it.

4.      Export 16 bit TIFF


PS Videos that I found useful: 


Look for AstroIslander's part 2 and 3 as well 








Friday, 5 December 2025

Beginner’s Guide to Camera Setup & Technique for Meteor Photography

 Beginner’s Guide to Camera Setup & Technique for Meteor Photography

If you’re anything like me, you may be feeling a little frustrated recently. I headed out to capture the Leonids a few weeks ago and was completely defeated by thick cloud cover. Now I’ll be waiting impatiently for the next decent shower - the Geminids - in December. At least the nights will be longer and darker by then. And this year, 2025, the moon will be just past the last quarter - so, not so much of an issue. Controllable! 

But if you’ve never photographed a meteor shower before and want a solid, beginner-friendly guide, read on. This will walk you through everything from location scouting to camera setup and even how to composite multiple meteors into one stunning final image.

alt="Geminid meteor shower"
Geminids - copyright PhotoPills website 


 Lets start with some basics - what is a meteor? 

They are bright flashes of light that move quickly across the night sky, caused by pieces of dust and debris from space entering the atmosphere - where they slow down and burn up. Meteor showers are periods when there are a larger number of meteors, normally because the Earth is moving through a trail of debris left behind by a comet or asteroid. 

So, this December, where should you be looking to catch a glimpse of a Geminid meteor or two? 

The Geminids emanate from the constellation Gemini. Look for the two bright stars Castor and Pollux. Find Orion - locate Rigel and Betelgeuse - draw a line from Rigel to Betelgeuse and keep the line going for the same distance to find Castor and Pollux. This is where the Geminds will appear from. 


Location: Finding the right spot is half the battle in meteor photography. Look for:

·       A dark sky site ideally bortle 3 or darker – the darker, the more fainter meteors you’ll catch

·       Big open sky view, especially to the sides of the meteor shower’s radiant. The wider the unobstructed sky around you, the better.  

·       Aim your camera 50 – 60 degrees above the horizon – it avoids the murky lower atmosphere and keeps star trailing manageable.

·       Cover at least 40 – 60 degrees in all directions from the radiant – Meteors fan outward; they won't appear right on the radiant itself. On the other hand, if you do aim towards the radiant, you will get shorter trails but show clearly how those trails appear from a single area of the sky.

·       Best time - typically after midnight until dawn, when the radiant is higher and your side of Earth is hitting more debris.

I'll add a note of controversy here which I will pick up again later - but you need to decide whether or not to include a foreground. You maximise your chances of catching a trail if you don't. On the other hand, foregrounds provide a beautiful context to a meteor trail. 

 

Equipment: you don’t need high end gear but there is some basic kit that makes it easier:

·       DSLR or mirrorless camera with manual controls

·       Wide angle lens (14 – 24mm) – I use a Samyang 14mm f/2.0. Wider = more sky = higher chance of catching meteors.

·       Sturdy tripodkeep it at mid height for stability and easy access to your camera controls

·       A programmable Intervalometer with 2” gap between exposures – prevents buffering issues and reduces sensor heat. One that is ‘lockable’ is a bonus.

·       Dew band – to stop your lens fogging

·       Plenty of batteries + memory cardsContinuous long exposures drain batteries fast and eat storage. Every hour or so when you re-align your frame (see below) – check your SD card, batteries and dew bands – you don’t want them running out or ‘fogging’ building up on your lens.  I tend to use a dummy battery powered by a large power bank in my camera – eliminating the ‘battery’ worries.

 

Framing your shot: Composition matters—beautiful images come from more than just catching a meteor.

If shooting sky only:

  • Some astrophotographers try to keep the radiant in one corner of the frame.
    Meteors streak outward across the sky, so you want surrounding space. I centre my camera at around 60 degrees above the horizon and then decide which cardinal direction I will focus on. I then orientate my camera – by ensuring the long axis of the frame points back towards the approximate radiant position.
  • If you choose the ‘long-axis’ orientation method above, remember to realign your frame every hour or so, as it will have drifted off alignment.
  • With an ultra-wide lens (14 mm), don’t zoom or crop—you want the maximum sky coverage.

If adding foreground: A well-chosen landscape element can add scale and visual interest – but remember, at the sacrifice of sky area

  • Include trees, hills, coastline, or architecture to give scale and grounding.
  • Mind the balance of light vs. darkness—too much empty sky can feel flat.
  • Try test exposures before peak activity to refine your composition –
  • Use the rule of thirds loosely: horizon on the lower third if you want the sky to dominate, and foreground or radiant near intersection points for a dynamic feel.
  • A diagonal element (a tree, rock formation, or shoreline) can help lead the viewer’s eye toward the radiant.

Helpful tool:

·       Use a star-chart app (Stellarium, SkySafari, Star Walk) to locate the radiant before you start shooting.

 

alt="Metoer and Ribblehead Viaduct"
Copyright: stargazing website 

Camera settings on the night: These settings are a solid baseline and work for most cameras.

  • Shoot in RAW. You’ll want maximum flexibility for noise reduction and colour.
  • Manual mode for both exposure and focus.
  • Long exposure noise reduction: OFF. Otherwise, your camera takes a dark frame after every shot, halving your chances of catching meteors.
  • Drive mode: Continuous shooting.
  • Aperture: As wide open as your lens allows (f/2.0–f/2.8).
  • Focus:
    • Set lens to manual focus.
    • Use live view to zoom in on a bright star.
    • Adjust until it becomes a precise point.
    • Tape the focus ring to stop accidental movement.
      (Infinity marks are notoriously unreliable.)
  • ISO: 800–3200. Darker skies allow higher ISO without too much noise. I normally start at 1600 on my test exposures – which I tend to do for 20 – 30”.  Overexposed? Shorten exposure length and take another test shot.  
  • Shutter speed: 15–30 seconds.   Longer exposures increase meteor-catching probability but introduce star trailing. Start with 20–25 seconds, zoom in to check star sharpness, and tweak as needed.
  • Capture as long as you can -  Once the setup is dialled in, shoot continuously for 1–2 hours without moving the tripod.

 

Practical Tips for a Successful Meteor Session

  • Be patient. Even during peak showers, meteors can come in clusters with quiet gaps.
  • Avoid moonlight. A bright Moon washes out faint meteors and reduces contrast.
  • Let your eyes dark-adapt for at least 20 minutes. Use a red torch to preserve night vision.
  • Check weather and cloud forecasts (satellite maps are best).
  • Dress warmly! Layers, gloves, hat, and insulated boots are your best friends.

When you get home, check your images – download them to your laptop/computer and go through each frame – looking for that trail! Don’t get confused with plane or satellite trails!  Rename each ‘genuine’ meteor trail by just adding a prefix letter at the end of its file name.

 

How to Capture and Composite Multiple Meteors

Capturing a single meteor is exciting—but capturing dozens in one polished image feels magical. Here’s how to create that iconic composite.

Step 1 — Capture your sequence

Shoot hundreds of frames as described above. If you’re lucky, 5–15 will contain visible meteors.

Step 2 — Choose a base image

Pick your cleanest frame:

  • sharp stars
  • no meteors
  • minimal cloud
  • well-exposed foreground

This becomes your master background.

Step 3 — Prepare your meteor frames

In your editor (Affinity Photo, Photoshop, etc.):

  • Open each RAW file. In affinity photo – that would be in ‘develop persona’
  • Apply minimal corrections: lens correction, light noise reduction, exposure, and white balance.
  • Do not crop or rotate—perfect alignment is crucial.

Place each meteor frame as a full-size layer above the base image.

Step 4 — Blend with “Lighten” mode

Set each meteor layer’s blend mode to Lighten.

This reveals:

  • the meteor streak
  • any stars brighter than those in the base frame

…and hides the rest.

Step 5 — Mask out unwanted areas

For each meteor layer:

  • Add a mask
  • Use a soft brush at 20–40% opacity to remove clouds, plane trails, or light pollution.

Step 6 — Final polish

  • Global exposure + white balance adjustments
  • A gentle noise reduction
  • Curves adjustment to add subtle contrast
  • Optional: light high-pass sharpening on meteor layers

When everything looks natural and cohesive, export your final image.

 

Final Thoughts

Meteor photography mixes patience, technique, and a bit of luck—but when everything comes together, the results are unforgettable. With preparation, the right settings, and a thoughtful workflow, you can go from “I hope I get one meteor” to creating stunning composite images full of movement and wonder.

 If you want further information about shooting meteors - i found this presentatiuon by PhotPills vcery useful: https://www.photopills.com/articles/meteor-shower-photography-guide#step12

 


Monday, 1 December 2025

Imaging session IC 63 The Ghost of Cassiopeia

 Imaging IC 63 – The Ghost of Cassiopeia

A few nights ago, I finally met up with two exceptionally talented astrophotographers - WA Emery Photography and Snapadile Dundee Photography - down at one of my favourite haunts: Wembury Beach on the South Devon coast. It’s the sort of place where the sky feels close enough to touch, like someone has lifted the lid off the world and left the universe steaming gently in the cold night air. Both gents have their own Facebook page by the way, if you are interested in seeing some of their astrophotography work. 

These two know their craft inside out. Spending time with them is like sitting beside some seasoned sailors I know, who can read the sky the way others read newspapers. Luckily, I’m a lifelong learner—happiest with a notebook full of new ideas, and a mind grappling with fresh tricks and techniques.

WA happens to own the same mount as me—the EQM-35 Pro. His was bought new and ‘serviced’ by Dark Frame Ltd; mine is a well-travelled third-hand veteran that’s survived three different owner styles!  Anyone who owns this mount knows balancing it can feel, on occasions, like coaxing a rusty gate to swing smoothly - thanks to Sky-Watcher’s famously “thick” factory grease in both RA and DEC.

(I have done a beginners guide to doing a meridian flip with your ASIair Mini - here - https://undersouthwestskies.blogspot.com/2025/12/beginner-tutorial-how-to-set-up.html )

To my surprise, my old mount wasn’t quite the cantankerous creature I believed it to be. After WA let me try balancing his setup, mine suddenly felt less like a “drifting spacecraft fighting micro-gravity tumble and more like a mount settling calmly into alignment.”

I started imaging IC 63, the Ghost of Cassiopeia, at around 19:00. For a while, everything ran beautifully. Then came the meridian flip at 22:00 - and the night then suddenly unravelled like a dropped ball of string.

I’m convinced meridian flips on the ASIAir Mini qualify as a dark art. That few minute lead up to the flip – the app timer taunting me, watching my confidence peak… only to be let down after flip time passes – crushing disappointment!

WA’s flip was perfect, effortlessly done, as if ASIAir itself were bowing in respect to his considerable knowledge and professionalism. Mine? My mount stared at me with all the enthusiasm of a mule refusing a steep hill. I had to flip manually, losing twenty minutes reframing. Then the guiding decided to misbehave. Star trailing everywhere. No tweak, nudge, setting, or prayer could fix it. Maddening. Infuriating actually!

Regardless of my technological stupidity and mount mutiny, the night itself was pure magic - crisp, cold, and clear. The new crescent Moon dipped behind the Great Mewstone around 20:00, scattering a last golden shimmer across Wembury Bay like an artist dragging a paintbrush of light golden hues over dark water.

At around 19:00 we caught sight of a Starlink launch low on the southwest horizon - a surreal greenish glow followed by a pearl-string parade of fast-moving satellites racing into lower Earth orbit. For a moment, it felt like the universe was staging its own UFO sci-fi theatrical moment just for us.

Between sips of hot coffee and glances at each other’s ASIAir screens, I learned settings and functions I didn’t even know existed. A proper steep learning curve - but a satisfying one. Despite the guiding wobbling, I managed steady 7-minute exposures, though it’s clear my mount is ready for that long-overdue service; WA was pulling off flawless 10-minute subs like it was nothing.

As the temperature dropped, the cold crept up from the gravel car park, chilling our bones, despite all our thermal layers and double duvet jackets. Breath plumed into silver clouds. Hands stiffened. But the Primus jet boil, flasks of hot drinks, and an unhealthy quantity of snacks kept the icy bite at bay.

I can’t speak for WA or Snapadile, but I loved every moment. Their advice, patience, and generosity made the night feel less like a solitary mission and more like a shared adventure beneath a friendly sky. Thanks guys. It was great meeting you both; masters of your craft and generous with your tips. Appreciated.

 

Equipment Used

  • Canon 800D with clip-in Optolong L-eNhance filter
  • William Optics Zenithstar 61II + 61A field flattener
  • Sky-Watcher EQM-35 Pro mount
  • ASIAir Mini + ZWO 120mm guide camera + RVO 32mm guide scope
  • Celestron Lithium Pro power tank
  • Dew bands (main + guide scope)
  • Two small power banks dedicated to dew bands
  • Dummy battery + power bank for the Canon 800D
  • MSM green laser pen with polar alignment adapter
  • Sky-Watcher right-angled polar viewer
  • Neewer intervalometer

Shooting Details

  • 15 × 420″ lights at ISO 1600
  • 15 darks
  • 25 bias
  • 25 flats

 

Sometimes I get so excited to start imaging that I forget to do the basics. “More haste, less speed” - a lesson the night drove home. I checked my test shots on the rear viewer, but not the histogram, and only later realised everything was slightly underexposed. The histogram peak was kissing the left edge—not clipped, thankfully, but not ideal. Longer subs or ISO 3200 would’ve made a world of difference.

Still… even with technical gremlins, underexposed frames, and a rebellious meridian flip, it was a night full of learning, talk, laughter, and starlight. The Ghost of Cassiopeia may be faint and elusive, but the memories from that cold Devon beach feel anything but. A cracking night, top stuff.

I have fallen behind with my post editing recently, but I will add my first effort on this DSO as soon as possible - so keep checking back on this page to see a 'first' result. I will also share my post editing work flow of the image as well. 

Update: well here is the final image

alt="IC 63 The Ghost of Cassipeia"

This is how it came out of post editing using Siril 1.4. YES! I have updated to Siril 1.4 and I have also downloaded the SetiAstro Cosmic Clarity Suite Pro as well! 

Huge step forward and lots of time following various Youtube channels to understand the basics.  I am currently writing/researching my final workflow order and when I have finalised it - I will publish it as a separate post. Suffice to say that the above image was my first attempt. 

So to the image below: 


My second attempt with some finishing off in Affinity Photo. I think this image is still too noisy and the nebula is overcooked - I overstretched it - again! But it is an improvement is it not. Maybe you don't. 

Let me know which image you think looks better and why - in the comment box below. Also drop in any tips to help us improve images such as these using SIRIL 1.4 and the Cosmic Clarity suite with GraXpert too. 

In the meantime, clear skies to you all, stay safe out there and have great fun observing and imaging

Steve  PlymouthAstroBoy 



PS: Finally, to the videos that helped me get started on the new Siril Version with Seti Astro python scripts - here they are - I suggest you subscribe to this guy if you haven't done so already - wonderful stuff - Astroislander 




and don't forget this channel - an absolute game changer where learning Siril is concerned: 

Deep Space Astro 




Postscript: 

I have switched over to SIRIL 1.4 at long last - you can read a recent post about my current workflow practice.  This new version has Veralux Hypermetric stretching.

So here is the final image using exactly the same data as above. 

What do you think? Which image do you prefer and why? Have you used Veralux stretching yet - if so - how did you find it? Drop your tips, thoughts and observations in a comment below and in the meantime, as always, stay safe, have fun and clear skies 

Steve 

alt="IC 63 Ghost of Cassiopeia"